Recent wines- I’m on a bit of a Passetoutgrain kick right now, and am planning to crack open an 06 Chevillon and an 07 Lafarge L’Exception in the next month or so. Fascinating to taste the passetoutgrains in succession- the Chevillon and Lafarge bore about as much resemblance as a St. Bernard to a Toy Yorkie.
2004 Castello Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva La Prima- Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (1/6/2010)
Smoky and black- as strong an impression of black licorice as I’ve ever gotten from a wine, along with a slightly bitter fruit that I can’t really place. This has a bit too much oak and the fruit is pretty “sweet”, and its definitely modern styled. But its not hot, not plump, and not at all pruned. It’s got a good minerally bite to it, powdery tannin, and a long and intense aftertaste.
In spite of my usual tastes, I like it. $40 retail , so fair QPR but not cheap. (89 pts.)
2006 Arcadian Pinot Noir Fiddlestix- USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills (1/2/2010)
Sweet red fruit, mouth-cleansing acidity, a touch of spice on the nose. Very nice, and not too ripe or out of balance. (88 pts.)
NOTE: Had this BTG at Bouley at their $48 lunch, which has to be the best deal in NYC. Second time I’ve gone there this year (the first was with work over the summer) and they were the two best meals of my year.
2006 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exception- France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (1/2/2010)
Oddly, this was killed way too young- it’s quite tannic, obtrusively so right now. Under the tannic wall there’s smoky red fruit (is that new oak? Possibly.), with a iron-mineral core. Really, hard to assess right now, and given the tannin, dark color, and general extraction level, it’s not intended for early drinking. Much harder to sense the gamay in here than in Chevillon’s Passetoutgrains. (86 pts.)
2007 Domaine Robert Chevillon Bourgogne Passetoutgrains- France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (12/30/2009)
Fantastic passetoutgrain. I’m a bit of a passetoutgrain obsessive, and this is about as good as they get. Pure red fruit nose-the smell of “firm” bing cherry (as distinguished from soft, overripe cherry) and raspberry. More red fruit in the mouth, vibrantly acidic, the smallest pinch of powdery tannin, and a hit of beef blood and minerality that builds and dominates the aftertaste. Wonderfully elegant at 12.5% ABV. Way better than the 2005 or 2006, and a marvellous “minature” burgundy.
My first 2007 passetoutgrain, and if this is any indication of the vintage, it’s going to be a killer for the appellation. There’s something special about Gamay grown on limey soil, regardless of what the experts will tell you about Gamay and granite. (90 pts.)
2006 Hubert Lignier Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (11/13/2009)
This is a more stern, serious, structured passetoutgrains. The Gamay portion is fairly silent. Started off closed and took its time to open up; what there showed was tart cranberry primarily, dried fruits, some nice red-fruit sappiness, with a touch of oak (I think?) and some drying tannins on the finish. There’s real quality here waiting to unfold. Probably superb in 2-3 years, or longer.
Great to see Passetoutgrains notes. I’m a big fan of the genre and find them a much better value than AOC Bourgogne rouge or even the typical village wine. Maybe they had the wrong idea expelling gamay from the Cote d’Or.
Chevillon’s one of the best, I’m also a big fan of Bruno Clavelier’s.
I agree, Clavelier’s is quite good. So is Chevillon’s, especially this 2007, and I love Digioia-Royer. Not as much of a fan of the Lafarge or Bruno Clark. Groffier’s is prtetty good. Pataille’s is OK. I think I remember liking Arnoux’s, but its been a couple of years.
I don’t like the Passetoutgrains that masquerade as pure Pinot- I think the Gamay should clearly register.
Taupenot-Merme (whom we import) makes PTG from 70% PN and 30% Gamay all from just below Morey-St. Denis - always excellent juice. I too often enjoy good PTG more than aot of Bourgogne rouge these days…
Because I can only drink 1/2 glass of wine per day (doctor’s orders), I pour off fresh bottles into a half, cork them tightly and spray in some argon, and then keep them in the fridge for revisiting a week or two later. Most wines which get this treatment either get a touch of VA or stay largely unchanged, but Lafarge 2006 L’Exception Passetoutgrains was much improved- there’s a fair bit more fruit and it doesn’t taste like monolithic tannin soup. I still don’t like the ungamayness of it, but its better than my previous evaluation. And pretty sturdy stuff, to last in the fridge for 10 days.
Wow that must be sturdy. I also note the muddy/dull VA that sets in on so many young reds as they oxidize in the fridge.
Half a glass/day? Ouch, I hope that changes for you soon! (BTW, I loved how you held your composure in the let’s make a deal thread. I would have lost my cool in a second. Freemott really is a sweetheart in person–as long as you don’t talk politics–or as long as he doesn’t have to listen to me profess my love of certain politicians.)
It’s more or less the worst thing ever. It started about 2 years ago and its going to continue at least for the next 3-5 years or so. On the bright side…well, there is no bright side. It just stinks.
My anti-oxidative procedure has been refined over the past 2 years till I’ve gotten it as good as its going to get. Nevertheless, most burgs will show that “muddiness” by day 2. Cab/Merlot holds up a lot better.