ONCE IN LIFETIME… - (11/24/2012)
Réception
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2002 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Brut Avize Grand Cru Champ Caïn - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
From magnum, light straw yellow in colour. On the nose, fruit is muted, aromas of damp cardboard. Notes became more prominent in time. On the palate, very astringent, unpleasant. Brutally corked. NR (flawed)
Hors d’œuvre
Shrimp & Prosciutto, Lemon Sage Butter
Chicken Liver Parfait & Cracklings
Crispy Sweetbreads with Bacon Onion Jam
Oyster Vichyssoise
Crab Cakes with Lemon Remoulade
Pork Belly with Ruby Watchco’s Spiced Honey
Pickled Beets and Pistachio Goat Cheese
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2000 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne
From magnum, light golden colour, persistent mousse. The nose of this Champagne just soars from the glass with notes of lemon zest, crushed rocks, copious amounts of yeast and biscuit notes, fresh ground coffee, light oak/barrel funk and with time, this opens up to reveal further notes of carmelized sugar and grated ginger. On the palate, this has a very rich, round and creamy mouthfeel, with a brisk streak of acidity, which serves as nice counterbalance to the rich ripe fruit. The slightly chalky finish is long and framed by notes of lemon and lime peel, mineral and ginger. My only qualm with this Champagne was that it could do with a bit more finesse and elegance, however, this would definitely be a winner for those who prefer a bigger and boisterous Champagne. This is aged 5% in oak, one third of it new, which is not offensive, and adds a good deal of complexity. (93 pts.) -
1996 Bruno Paillard Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
From magnum, light golden colour. Next to the Taittinger, this was a little more reticent and reserved. With a bit of time in the glass, this opened up to show notes of fresh cut red apples, light citrus, slate, a touch of yeast, spice and a predominant note of what smelled exactly like apple jelly. I found the nose extremely interesting, but not at all what I was expecting. On the palate, notes of apple, citrus, mineral, spice and pickled ginger round out the moderate length finish. I was expecting some piercing acidity on this Champagne, but overall, I found it to be moderate. The mouthfeel was much leaner, compared to the Taittinger. Nice Champagne, but fell short of expectations, perhaps hurt by it’s more bombastic counterpart. (91 pts.)
1er Plat
“Foie Gras and Hen Egg Salad”
Parfait, Seared & Croutons and Truffle Foie Gras Vinaigrette
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1921 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
The cork was rather stubborn on this one and had to be forced in to the bottle. Fully saturated, however, it had dried to a tight seal between the capsule and the bottle. This had a deep cola like colour in the glass. Still very much alive, with an exotic nose of molasses, burnt sugar, marmalade, orange bitters, dried fruit, dried flowers and tea leaves. On the palate, this was still very rich and round, with that molasses coming through again, accompanied by nice dried fruit and spice notes, with almost a touch of sarsaparilla. Still in great balance, with a very long, lingering finish. This improved for the first hour in the glass, but started to gracefully decline thereafter. (96 pts.) -
1847 Lur-Saluces - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
This was very interesting wine, in an unlabeled clear bottle, with a wax sealed top, which was stamped with “Lur-Saluces 1847”. Once again, cork extraction proved to be extremely difficult, breaking during extraction. In the glass, this was significantly lighter than the Yquem, taking on a deep golden colour. On the nose, this was a bit dusty, but offered up notes of burnt orange, spice, a touch of honey, beeswax, light florals and terpentine. On the palate, this was showing a touch of astringency with acid in the forefront, but with some nice bitter orange, caramelized sugar and spice notes present. There was some discussion that this was potentially an Yquem, but I certainly have my doubts. Also, given the light colour, it would seem highly unlikely that this bottle was from 1847, however, whatever was in the bottle was quite good and enjoyable, as well as an experience in itself. (91 pts.)
2ème Plat
“Shallot Crème Brulee”
Butter Poached Black Cod, Kohlrabi, Watercress & Sea Urchin
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1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, straw colour in the glass. Exuding from the glass are some prominent ripe fruit notes of pineapple, stone fruit, as well as lemon curd, crushed rocks, florals and a light herbal note. The palate is very rich and concentrated, showing a volumptious mouthfeel, but no sense of flabbiness, with a strong streak of acid that accentuates the long citrus, tropical fruit, herb and mineral laden finish that lingers in the mouth. At 17 years of age, this is still drinking very youthfully from magnum, with plenty of life left to go. Absolutely gorgeous. (97 pts.) -
1994 Marc Colin et Fils Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, straw colour in the glass with a slight green tinge. Next to the DRC, this wine was a bit of a disaster, in my opinion. To me, the nose was fairly reticent, but with some coaxing, notes of lemon zest, wax and mineral were present, however, this was overlaid by notes of soiled diapers, and a bit of match stick. On the palate, equally unimpressive, much leaner than it’s counterpart, with tastes of waxy lemon and mineral, but again, some garbage juice like notes, with some sulfur. Finishes short, but thank goodness for that! This wine was not for me, but others enjoyed it a great deal. (84 pts.)
3ème Plat
“Spaghetti & Meatballs”
Lobster Meatballs & Lobster Cream
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2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, straw colour in the glass. Interesting nose of stone fruits, dried apricot, roasted hazelnuts, spice, and florals. On the palate, this is still fairly rich in texture, with moderate acidity, showing notes of dried fruits, mineral, roasted hazelnuts and dried flowers. The finish is a touch clipped, bitter, and showing some excessive heat. To me, even in magnum, this wine is tired. Perhaps this is a wine I don’t understand, but I have not tried one of these that have come out “on the other side” and been better than it was in it’s youth. (88 pts.) -
2011 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, light straw colour in the glass. So vibrant and lively compared to the 2001 served along side it, with very pretty nose of stone fruits, melon, tropical fruits, honey, light vanilla, florals, spice and crushed rocks. On the palate, even fatter than the 2001, with a very rich and round mouthfeel, showing tropical fruits, spice and mineral on the long finish. Unfortunately, the beauty in this wine is marred by a touch of heat on the back end, but still a very pretty wine. Overall, not exactly my style, but there is no arguing that this is masterfully constructed. (92 pts.)
Stretch
“Cucumber & Honey Dew Melon”
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1976 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
From magnum, popped and poured, deep golden colour in the glass. On first pour, tons of micro bubbles remain, however, these dissipate within the first few minutes. This shows an oxidative nose of bruised apple, earth, spice, yeast, crushed rocks, toasted hazelnuts, toffee, and some sherry type notes. The second bottle shows a little more advanced with the earthy notes in the forefront, with a bit of undergrowth and mushroom. On the palate, this is still quite rich, with terrific acidity that is very refreshing. The finish is long, and is accentuated by notes of bruised apples, mineral, hazelnut and spice. Other people really loved this, but for my preference, this was on the downward slide; I prefer my Champagne much more youthful and vibrant. (90 pts.)
4ème Plat
“Duck and Bacon”
Duck Breast, Applewood Smoked Bacon,Duck Fat Roasted Heirloom Carrots,
Pickled Raisins and Almonds
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1969 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, light garnet with medium brick at the rim. Cork was finicky and had to be pushed in to the bottle. At first, I found this to be extremely reticent, especially compared to the ’71 Romanee Conti served alongside it, that was just roaring out of the glass. Over the course of the evening, this really unraveled nicely, offering up notes of red fruits, earth, undergrowth, dried herbs, baking spice, and a touch of pepper. On the palate, very understated with a leaner mouthfeel, and like notes from nose echoing on the palate through to the moderate finish. This seems a bit tired, but overall, still a pleasure to taste. (91 pts.) -
1971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru
From magnum, decanted approximately 20 minutes prior to service, deep ruby with a light brick at the rim. This was re-corked in 1998 by the Chateau, so extraction of the cork was not an issue. Inspection of the cork shows branding as expected. This wine just soars from the glass, with explosive aromas of red fruits, spice, dried herbs, cured meats, fresh cut grass, crushed rocks, olive brine, brown sugar, damp earth and mushroom. You can tell from the nose that there is a good amount of stem inclusion here. On the palate, an immense richness and depth of flavour, with tastes of red and black cherries, pomegranate, brine, minerals, spice and herbs, that round out the very lengthy finish. What a treat this was to taste – truly a once in a lifetime experience. (97 pts.)
5ème Plat
“Short Ribs, Marrow & Caviar”
16 hour Braised Short Ribs, Onion Puree & Grebiche Trimmings
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1983 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
From magnum, decanted approximately 30 minutes prior to service, deep garnet in the glass. Wow…what a stunner this was. An absolutely explosive nose of black cherry, red currants, blackberries, earth, dried tobacco, undergrowth, intense florals, leather, crushed rocks and dried herbs. This is one of those wines where you can keep going back and picking out more every time you stick your nose in the glass. Not surprisingly the palate is aligned with the beauty of the nose, showing an immense richness, while still maintaining a certain level of elegance and finesse; exceptionally balanced, with lifted acidity. The finish is incredibly lengthy, lingering in the mouth with tastes of blackberry, licorice, mineral, earth and dried flowers. Still a touch of grip on the finish of some unresolved tannin. Up against some very stiff competition tonight, this wine takes the cake. Well done, Palmer. While this was very strong out of the gate, with some time in the glass, this faded substantially after the second hour. (98 pts.) -
1976 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum, decanted approximately 30 minutes prior to service, a medium garnet in the glass, with a slight brick. While the cork was partially saturated, there was no issue removing it cleanly. A little less expressive on the nose than the ’83 Palmer served alongside it, however, there was a real elegance to this wine, giving up scents of red fruits, currants, dried herbs, smoke, cedar, dried tobacco leaves, earth, and undergrowth. On the palate, this is much leaner than its counterpart, but still in beautiful balance, with some fine acidity, and mostly resolved tannin. Finish is moderate, and lined with red fruits, tobacco, smoke, earth and dried herbs. This won’t blow you away, but it is beautifully aged classic Bordeaux. (93 pts.)
6ème Plat
"Carpaccio”
Tea Salt Seared Bison Tenderloin, Thunder Oak Gouda, Spicy Tomato Ketchup
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1899 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum, decanted approximately 15 minutes prior to service for sediment, a medium garnet in the glass, with a moderate brick. The cork was fully saturated and broke on extraction. The cork was so old and stained that any details could not be discerned. Surprisingly, this was still kicking and extremely pleasant. On the nose, some red fruits, currants, leather, cedar, aged meats, dried tobacco, earth, coriander, dried tea leaves, and also some greenness in the form of dried cilantro, grass clippings, and a hint of mint leaves. On the palate, again still very much alive and showing great depth; red fruits, tea, dried herbs, tobacco, earth and a hint of mint, which frame the long, persistent finish. Acid is present, but not taking over; refreshing. (96 pts.) -
1900 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum, decanted approximately 15 minutes prior to service for sediment, a deep garnet in the glass, with a moderate brick. This bottle was purchased ex-Chateau, and was reconditioned in 2003. It was re-corked when reconditioned, and as such, cork extraction was clean. I’m not sure what the Chateau used to recondition this wine, but man was this youthful for 112 years old. The nose seems indicative of a ripe vintage, showing deep, but slightly stewed aromas of red currants, black cherry, spice, dried herbs, earth, mushroom, exotic spice and lavender. On the palate, still very rich and vibrant, showing deep red and black fruits, earth, spice and dried flowers. The concentration in this wine is exceptional, with fully resolved structure in great balance, with a moderate finish. What a privilege to taste a wine of this age and provenance. (96 pts.)
Fromage
Selection of Canadian cheese, dates, honeycomb
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1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
From magnum, decanted approximately 90 minutes prior to service, a deep inky purple in the glass. Very youthful and tight on the nose. With some coaxing, it revealed notes of black fruits, blueberries, light vanilla, olives, smoke, herbs, licorice, florals, pepper. On the palate, again, still quite tight, with rich black and blue fruit, pepper, smoke and briny olive. The concentration here is massive, but it is in perfect balance. Finish is quite long, and accentuated by brisk acidity and quite a bit of silky tannin. In this format, I wouldn’t touch this for another 15-20 years. This bottle was much tighter and more youthful than the single bottle format tasted earlier this year. Score is a little reserved, but it is clear this will evolve in to a real stunner and may one day merit a perfect score. (95 pts.)
Dessert
"Pear & Butterscotch”
Pear, Butterscotch Goat Yoghurt, Almonds
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2005 Château de Fargues - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From magnum, popped and poured, light golden colour in the glass. Bursting with aromas of tropical fruits, honey, spice, white flowers, marmalade, clove, honeysuckle and beeswax. On the palate, viscous like motor oil, but great acidity that cuts through the richness like a knife, saving this from being cloying. The finish is long, and is characterized by notes of marmalade, honey, herbs and spice. What a way to end the night! (94 pts.)
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That line-up is nothing short of amazing! Thanks for sharing!![[thumbs-up.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/f/f84c5acc11486ee4baba6dee6cf61dbd133abb18.gif "[thumbs-up.gif]"){kind=small}
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