TN: Ogier 1991 Cote Rotie

WINE TALK
#1

The 1991 vintage is a very great year for Cote Rotie, and in my experience so far, only 1999 has a chance to be as good. Over the years, I have often had the 1991 Ogier alongside the 1991 Jamet. I have always preferred the Jamet as the better of two outstanding wines. Tonight, for my last bottle of the Ogier, there was no Jamet on the table…

Domaine Michel Ogier 1991 Cote Rotie. Mature garnet color. Soaring exotic perfume of flowers, damp earth, bacon fat, game. The nose of this wine always reminds me of viognier, although I’ve been told this is 100% syrah. Velvet on the palate, earth and tobacco and a hint of cigar ash as well. Tannin completely resolved, but acidity gives a framework for the wine. As pretty as this wine is, the palate cannot quite live up to the nose… but Outstanding nonetheless. Time to drink up IMO.

#2

Sounds like an outstanding wine Lew. Thanks for sharing. I have a soft spot for CR personally and am not let-down when the palate isn’t as soaring as the the nose. One to look out for,

Faryan

#3

I agree with you on '91. I’ve loved everything I’ve opened from that vintage.

#4

Thanks Lew. I think I have one of these and one of the '88s left. I also love the '91s but would also say '88 is in the same league. Many are getting a bit old in the tooth but when on, are fantastic. While a different beast, the '88 La Mouline remains a benchmark CR for me.

All the Ogier CR are 100% syrah. Few producers these days coferment with viogner anymore.

#5

Agree on all fronts.

I would say that 1991 Gentaz is benchmark for me, but the 1988 & 1991 LaLa’s were damn good wines.

When you headed back this way?

#6

Monkey Boy,

Well you’re wrong about the '91 Gentaz, a shadow compared to the '88. But I haven’t had the '88 in eons and only have one. I need to cue it up but not a travel bottle.

I’ll be back in mid-August and maybe we can cause some trouble.

#7

For me, the 1991 noses the 1988 just for the sheer wildness and added concentration. The 1988 may be a shade prettier.

Both great though.

I should be around most of August.

#8

Aah, someday we should try them side-by-side.

I’ve always found the '91 to be “polished” and almost glossy if that makes sense. The '88 to be wilder and more old school.

Alas a style of CR that has long since evaporated.

#9

I agree - 1991 Ogier is a great wine, the complexity in the nose is incredible, the palate is slightly less convincing, but I still prefer(ed) it slightly to the Jamet regular - only the Jamet Cote brune is superior … Rostaings Cote blonde is I think its equal and his La Landonne superior still.
I guess also the Guigals LaLas, but I haven´t tasted any for many years.

I´ve still got a single bottle Ogier 91 … (and BTW the 1990 is also drinking great, slightly more rustic, but even better grip on the palate)

#10

Can I come too

Will travel anywhere to drink Gentaz…

#11

Nice to see you Everett!

You’ll need to come to CO as I find traveling with older bottles to be wasteful given how they often show. I’m never together enough to ship ahead. Like you anytime with Gentaz is a good time.

#12

Thanks for the note. I agree with you on 91 Ogier. I’m a big fan of 91 Cote Rotie. Except for the La La’s & Chapoutier Mordoree, they are almost impossible to find these days. I only have a few left. Your note makes me want to pop one this weekend.

I firmly believe 99 was even better. The wines are richer, fresher, cleaner and more expressive and should be even longer lived.

A question for people that know. What happened in 91 in Cote Rotie that did not take place in Hermitage? There are some nice 91 Hermitage wines, but generally speaking, they are not the equal of Cote Rotie.

#13

I found some 2005 Ogier Cote Rotie La Serine (same wine?) at a ridiculous price recently.

Any thoughts on how this might compare to previous vintages? I am unfamiliar with C-R in general, but couldn’t pass it up at $30/btl.

#14

Megan, I believe that is Ogier Caves du Papes which is not the same producer here which Domaine Michel et Stephane Ogier.

Jeff, I have often wondered the same thing. Oddly enough I find the '88s in the same camp where CR excelled but not nearly as much in the neighboring areas.

Maybe someone will know what all came together in '91 specifically near Ampuis.

#15

I’m not aware of any Ogier cuvee called La Serine. In 1991 there was only one cuvee, simply labeled Ogier Cote Rotie.

#16

I’ve only had them side buy side twice, but both times they showed that way. Obviously, they were both secondary market acquisitions so I have no idea what the treatment was. Even pristine bottles of the 1991 from Willi’s were a bit wild though…

If we do compare, they’ll have to be yours, I was tapped out years ago. Maybe an excuse to get to Boulder?

Interestingly, Josh Raynolds grabbed me at the Dressner tasting to talk about the 2007 Texier Cote-Rotie and compare it to Gentaz. I know that is Eric’s archetype.

#17

Different terroir. Cornas was also excellent in 1991 and 1988 and less successful in 1989 and 1990. Why are there great 1991 Nuits but not Beaune?

I can’t speak to the particulars from memory. JLL probably has some info.

#18

This is OGIER NEGOCIANT at chateauneuf-du-Pape … NOT
the Domaine Stephane and Michel OGIER in Ampuis.

usually nothing special … but haven´t tasted anything recently …

#19

Hi Gerhard,
I have not tasted '91 Jamet Cote Brune, unfortunately. You have named a lot of my favorites, and I might quibble about a few details, but I guess that is what wine boards are for. I’ve had Ogier and (regular) Jamet together at least half a dozen times, usually single blind, and have preferred the Jamet every time. It is a more complete wine, an exceptional wine IMO. But that is just me. The '91 Jamet I opened four months ago required significant aeration to open up fully. I’m sad that I have only one more.

I’m a fan of Rostaing 1991’s as well. I generally prefer Cote Blonde to La Landonne, and '91 is no exception, but would never refuse a glass of either. I’m down to a single bottle of '91 Cote Blonde, and my Landonne is gone (but not forgotten).

#20

I had the pleasure of meeting Stephane Ogier at Hospice du Rhone and tasting through his wines. I also thought I smelled viognier on the nose and asked him if it was in there. He said, “No, I do not add any Viognier to my Syrahs, I do not beleive in it.” I was surprised as I thought that was a common practice for Cote Rotie and I asked him what the percentage of producers was that do co-ferment or add Viognier and he did not know, does anybody have any idea?