I think those are just all producers who work with riper fruit, lower dosage for all their wines. At least for some of these, without being unduly pedantic, I wouldn’t describe it as adhering to a “trend” as it being an integral part of how they make wine: their riper, lower yielding grapes don’t require so much balancing sugar.
As Otto says, I think our stereotypes of Meunier have more to do with how it has been (mis)treated than anything else. And of course, the likes of Prévost and Chartogne-Taillet are exploding those stereotypes. In reality, it’s clear from the best varietal bottlings that it can be much more serious than it was historically given credit for.
So true. Some of the most interesting Champagnes we have had in recent years have been Meunier or Meunier-dominated cuvees. Chartogne-Taillet, Mousse Fils and Bereche, as well as the Egly Meunier wine are frequently opened at Schloss Bueker.
Great thread. I’ve tried the Vignes de Vrigny once in Europe and once recently in the states (a newer disgorgement). Looking back on my notes, I notice that both have had what I thought of as a white mushroom note. Even dry red versions of PM often have an earthy quality, perhaps what is meant by “nutty” referenced above?
Having mentioned Prevost, Chartogne Taillet Les Barres (there is a PN version as well), Laherte Freres Vignes d’Autrefois, Christopher Mignion Pur Meunier, and Mousse Fils “Terre d’Illite”, are there other highly recommended bottles of sparkling Pinot Meunier one should be on the lookout for?
I quite enjoy Francis Boulard’s “Les Murgiers,” which is 100% Pinot Meunier now. One caveat, though: all my bottles are a few years old, when it was only mostly 100% Pinot Meunier, with some Pinot Noir blended. It also used to be Extra Brut (my current parcel at 5 g/L) and it is now Brut Nature. So I would imagine it’s a somewhat different beast these days than it was when we bought a large parcel in 2015. Those have been aging beautifully. I hope it is still a wonderful wine, if somewhat changed from what I know.
Thanks Sarah, I did not know this cuvée had undergone changes (I only had it a couple of times). That had me look into the last time I had this (May of this year). My CT notes mention a disgorgement of 28/07/2017 and it was labeled Extra Brut. I also refer to this as 100% Meunier in my notes. A CT picture of a back label from a very close disgorgement (August 2017) shows as a base of 2014 with 100% Meunier.
But looking on the web there doesn’t seem to be a lot of information on the changes or a consensus on when they occurred. I found one source (French wine board) that said the change to 100% Meunier happened from the 2014 base onward (it also mentions that before that it was roughly 70%PM and 30%PN). Finally, it seems that up until the 2015 vendanges, les Murgers was offered in both Extra Brut and Brut Nature but that changed in 2015 and now, as you stated, only Brut Nature is made.
So, it looks like your stash is 70%PM and 30%PN Extra Brut while I had a 100%PM Extra Brut version of this. And from 2015 onward it would be 100%PM Brut Nature (0g/l). If anybody has facts that could clear this all up, it would be great. Enquiring minds want to know.
But whatever changes mine had compared to yours, I also enjoyed it quite a lot (more so 3 years after release than in 2017 when I cracked the first one open).
I’d email them directly if you want to know for sure. I had a question about their Grand Montagne (my parcel of this wine is also Extra Brut, whereas now it seems to be Brut Nature, though that’s not what I wanted to ask about) back a few years and emailed them - contact info is on the website, I believe. I received a very nice and thorough note back.
Agreed on the need for a few years development. Mine have all been aging extremely well. I wonder if that will change at all now that they are zero dosage, as has been discussed in another thread recently.
Good advice. So I reached out to Mme Delphine Richard (a.k.a Delphine Boulard). She was nice enough to answer quickly and thoroughly even though it is close to harvest and she must be in high gear. She confirmed that since 2001 there has always been 2 dosages for the Les Murgiers cuvée. Her dad, Francis, always wanted to produce an Extra-Brut and a Brut Nature of Les Murgiers with the Brut Nature being a smaller production. However, cellar management became a little too complex so Mme Richard made the call to restrict this to a single dosage in 2015. However, that single dosage could vary from Brut Nature to Extra-Brut depending on the vintage and her mood . She was also mentioning that since Brut Nature has been produced since 2001, she has been able to see them age a little bit (almost 20 years!) and that the 2001s still show beautifully and still exhibit a very fresh profile.
So great and quick answer from a great producer. I love it when great wines come from great people.
I didn’t get answers in regards to the assemblage and I don’t want to bother her again during the harvest period but I’ve gone to the importer to see if they had past releases tech sheets going back to at least the 2012 vintage.
Nice work, Phil! Thanks for putting in the effort and very interesting reply. We still have several cases of the original parcel, so I won’t be buying any more recent releases anytime soon, but very good to know for the future.
. She was also mentioning that since Brut Nature has been produced since 2001, she has been able to see them age a little bit (almost 20 years!) and that the 2001s still show beautifully and still exhibit a very fresh profile.