Our 1995 Bordeaux dinner in London in November was a triumph, affirming my premise that most of these wines are in, or are entering, their drinking window. The naysayers, determined to prove that these wines would never come round before the fruit faded, or that this vintage is a dud, graciously conceded.
In our Pomerol flight Latour a Pomerol was flat out gorgeous and L’Evangile such a class act. Clinet could not match these two; it is a good, albeit not very exciting, wine, which is also drinking well. Magdelaine was also surprisingly accessible, despite being reassuringly old school, and was not embarrassed by H-B and LMHB in its flight.
But the stars of the night were unquestionably Haut-Brion and La Mission, which were spectacular and firing on all cylinders. Of the other wines all showed well, apart from Ducru which was not a good bottle. A subsequent bottle a couple of weeks later, affirmed that it is a contender for wine of the vintage.
The Leovilles Barton and Lascases are classic wines, Lynch is such a class act, definitely still on the young side if you like a lot of primary expression, while Montrose and Calon Segur are a bit more rustic and old fashioned, but nevertheless riveting wines. As already noted GPL and Pichon Lalande are particularly strong in 1995, the latter has been drinking well for a decade.
The only wine I have found to be consistently disappointing in 1995 is La Conseillante, an archetypal curmudgeon. Figeac is much better but one of the more backward wines, even out of halves I have been drinking in recent years.
It is clear that the 1995s have taken longer than any recent vintage to come round, and perhaps it is the last genuinely old school vintage. But I think these wines may even eventually command a premium for this very reason.
I find 1995 to be a more intellectual vintage than 1996, which is more obvious by comparison: the 1996 vintage’s attributes are well chronicled, and its accolades richly deserved, but the 1995s are a bit more lithe and racy across the mid-palate, even more interesting.
I have had amazing bottles of Lafite and Mouton 1995. Several years ago we did a ‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting, where Mouton 1995 triumphed in a field that included the likes of Harlan Estate, Bryant and Lafite 1998. A couple of years prior to that Lafite 1995 knocked everything into a cocked hat at a trophy Bordeaux dinner organised by Jacques Levy in Kittle House, Chappaqua.