Müller-Catoir Haardt Riesling Brut Sekt –Pfalz, Germany 12,5% alc. Klassische Flaschengärung (fermented in this bottle)
There are generally a few different styles of Riesling Sekt produced in Germany. The majority of sparkling wine here (as is the same in every country) is cheap and manufactured on an industrial scale. For the most part, these are serviceable and decent enough. The cheap stuff is most always dry, fruity, lacking complexity and sometimes marred with a bit too high a dose of sulfur (grape material at this price being what it is.) But it remains popular. As I’ve said before, to be without a few bottles of Sekt at any given time is almost akin to being out of flour and onions and eggs and it would be almost unthinkable not to offer a glass to an unexpected visitor or invited dinner guest at any reasonable hour of the day. The cheapest can be had for 3 or 4€ a bottle with acceptable quality starting around 7 or 8. This presents a bit of a challenge to producers who focus on high-quality wine, but it is beginning to be rather uncommon for a producer of any size to be without a token Sekt-offering (either estate-bottled or produced off-site from the vintners own wine.)
The best German Sekte (almost always made with Weißburgunder or Spätburgunder) can compete on a scale with the best of Austria (Bründlmayer, Gobelsburg, Steininger, etc.) and certainly with the Cremant de Loire/d’Alsace but though often made in a different style and showing different terroir, indeed misses the high standard set by Champagne (to my tastes anyway.) Sometimes they come close though (Bergdolt WB extra Brut comes to mind.)
This is the first Sekt release from Müller-Catoir and very good it is -light and delicate, but with streamlined acidity that races alongside the persistent bead of very fine, prickly bubbles. Lightly floral and surprisingly mineral despite the light body. Apple and pear fruit with just a little nectarine and marzipan –all of which require a little investigation to emerge because of the very dry leanings of this wine. It is a sort of ‘tweener style between a better Prosecco and a harder-hitting, more full-bodied Riesling Sekt from Germany or Austria. I see this more as a great entre or cocktail-hour bubbly rather than one that could handle main-course dinner fare like a full-bodied Champagne or even some of the excellent Weißburgunder or Spätburgunder Sekte that have become very good in Germany, Alsace, and Austria.
Cheers,
Bill