TN: Mostly Riesling with biryani

Saturday Betsy and I drove to Jersey City, where Salil had made biryani in Jay and Arnold’s kitchen. We were greeted by a nice group with some great smells and plenty of wine.

1993 Ampeau Meursault Perrieres 1er
Young, full, and bright, with hazelnut and pear flavors. Holds up very well over several hours. A-

First up was a complex dhal, which I enjoyed with a couple of reds

1993 Bernard Amiot “Chatelots” Chambolle-Musigny 1er
Pretty, taut, tart at first, more expressive later. B+/B

1989 Faiveley “Clos des Cortons” Corton-
Good showing, ripe but fresh, big bodied, sandalwood and black cherry. Holds well for hours. A-
1985 Drouhin Nuits-st George
A nice argument for aging village wines. Fruit is amazingly fresh, some smoked meat and leather, nice finish. B+

1978 Keenan Cabernet Sauvignon
I’ve had good bottles of this before, this one had a thoroughly soaked corked and didn’t show well. At first musty (though not TCA) and a tad fecal, that blows off and a couple hours later more dark fruit emerges, but by then it seems volatile. Wonder if I had tasted at one hour mark? C+/B- at end

There were a pair of Juras which disappointed, both excessively oxidated. The 1983 Camille Loye “Cuvée Saint Paul” Chardonnay Arbois out-sherried the sherries (let’s say a C ) but I think I liked it better than the tired and somewhat dirty 1988 Camille Loye “Cuvée Saint Paul” Trousseau Arbois C-

With amazing chicken biryani and the best raita I’ve ever had, the flow of Rieslings started:

2004 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Spatlese
Shows young and simple, leave rest to rest. B/B-

2001 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenhur Auslese*
Zippy, frisky, fun. B+/A-

2002 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenhur Auslese*
A little less lively than the 2001, but more complex and deeper at moment. A-

2012 Merkelbach “Urgluck” Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese
Great acids, lime and mineral, excellent - couple of people buy online while tasting. A-/B+

2012 Selbach Oster Zeltinger “Anrecht’ Himmelreich
Auslese level sweetness, full and rich, floral and citrusy. B+

1997 Alzinger Loibner Loibenberg Smaragd
I got next to last pour and thought “wow this was popular” Turns out it was a leftover bottle. Surprised me by showing sweetness, but that was probably because room temp concealed acids. B?

1969 Zilliken Ockfener Bockstein Cabinet Auslese
Good color in bottle, but darkens quickly on opening. Tired and dragging. C+


1976 Baron von Kaulbars Oppenheimer Sacktrager Beerenauslese
Light (in both color and depth) for mature BA, honied and simple. I feel better about Zachys breaking a bottle. B-/C+

2012 Peter Lauer Unterstenbersch Fass 12
Rather dry, excellent length, I tried this in wrong order! Big herby powerful. B+/A-

1971 Kirchmayr Neuburger Solist.
I think others liked more than I, but while I found the piney profile not superappealing, this is amazingly youthful- I had thought this was a recent wine. B-

Jay put out cheese and a beautiful raspberry cake,
1999 Durkheimer Hochbenn Muskateller Eiswein
Very sweet, straightforward, tropical and musky. Needs a touch more zip B
2010 Peter Lauer “Scheidt” Beerenauslese
Big, full, less botrytis driven than I would have guessed, electric acids. B+


(I’m unclear if this is a 1895 or 1898 Solera) Henriques and Henriques Verdelho
Apparently opened a year! Nutty, raisiny, delicious. B+

La Bota de Palo Cortado “ 21”
I tried to give this a fair shake, but I just don’t get sherry, I trust others that this is an excellent example, but for me a C+

I didn’t try the other sherry, the El Maestro Sierra 1830 Amontillado VORS

Really fun afternoon/evening. Great crowd, and Arnold and Kenny made sure Betsy didn’t feel overwhelmed by winegeekiness. Absolutely fantastic food, and lots of great wine.

Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Salil’s biryani is always great.

Nice notes! Wish I could have made it.

The batch of older Loye wines that made it here in recent times are all shite, from what I understand. The one bottle I have tried was a 1983 Chardonnay and I found it much as you described it. (A 1989 Trousseau at another gathering was corked.)

Mostly agree but the two Sherries were great with the El Maestro Sierra 1830 Amontillado VORS
a particularly fantastic match with the Landaff.

The Chatelots also improved considerably after about 2.5 hours in the decanter. An argument for not opening 1993s just yet. Earlier I had thought it good but starting over the hill.

The Urgluck and the '02 Selbach Oster were my favorites of the whites. The '01 Selbach Oster was still singing on the second night. The '89 Faiveley was my favorite of the reds and possibly of the day.

The H&H is 1898

It’s funny, my personal experience has been that though I generally really like Selbach-Oster, they didn’t hit quite as much of a home run in 2001 as the other Mosel producers did. Their 2002s on the other hand are really good.

That was our experience on Saturday. Of course they both felt like they had room to improve further.

Thanks Dale for taking notes. Agree with most of your impressions - the Faiveley was a real stunner, and I also really liked the Bernard Amiot Chatelots with more air - it needed time, but after 2-3 hours it was really lovely.

Meanwhile, drinking some of the Amontillado leftovers now and it’s fantastic - incredibly complex, layered, amazing aromatics and depth with all sorts of smoky, nutty and burnished flavours, and I’m a huge fan.

Really fun evening with a great group of people and wines. Many thanks to Jay and Arnold for hosting, and to Arnold for all his help in the kitchen.

I’ve had 2002 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenhur Auslese last year and it was pretty nice tasting wine, my daughter loved it.

Oh, and one thing I have to comment on. I had always thought that dal was this bland one note boring thing that Indian restaurants insisted on serving you probably out of tradition. I had no idea it could be this complex or have so many layers of flavor.

Huge kudos to both Salil and his grandmother (who prepared the spice mix that went into it). I expected the biryani to be good but the dal was a shock.

Yeah, that dal is something else.

The '04 Selbach Oster had opened up a bit more and was still drinking well on night night 5. the '01 had pretty well fallen apart on night 3.

The '99 Darting Muskateller eiswein hadn’t budged much on night 3, Arnold was still a fan.

This weekend I can get back to opening new bottles :slight_smile: