TN: Michel Gros 2000 Vosne-Romanée "Les Brulées"

WINE TALK
#1

I was in a Vosne frame of mind on Friday and found this orphan tucked away in a corner of my cellar flashing its “come hither” look.

I decanted the wine and gave it 45 minutes while I cooked dinner. The color was the first good sign. Visually, this wine was a textbook example of what Henri Jayer described to Kermit Lynch in his classic “Adventures on the Wine Route.”:

“Black is not the color of Burgundy. You must be able to see through a glass of it. The Pinot has a pretty robe, glistening and shimmering like a cat’s eyes, sparkling like a diamond.”

Just looking at this wine got me in a good mood.

The nose needed just a little coaxing to emerge from the glass. It was a very seductive and elegant aroma with that oriental spicebox character that is often associated with wines from Vosne. (I detected none of the ash quality that Meadows noted in his barrel TN of 2003.) Mouthfeel was excellent, with a perfectly balanced elegance and a flavor profile that veered to blue fruits. The finish was decently long. This was amazingly well put-together for a 2000, and had not yet hit its peak. It was it a great place for current drinking, though.

I have very little experience with “Les Brulées” but this was a very encouraging introduction to that vineyard. As for Michel Gros’ wines, I have always been a little leery of them out of confusion over the styles of the various Gros family permutations and the rep that all Gros wines are too dominated by toasty oak. I recall that I was persuaded to buy this “on sale” wine about 4 or 5 years ago by a trusted retailer and I never got around to trying it. I will definitely go back to try to backfill, although it’s not likely there’s any of this beauty left.

All in all, a lovely wine and fine calling card for 2000 in Vosne.

#2

Thanks for that fine note, Harry. Not ever had the Brulees but I’ve had the Clos du Reas a number of times. Last time in mid-Spring…

"2000 Michel Gros Vosne Romanee Clos de Reas

This bottle (my 3rd at least) has more of an element of burnt caramel than I remember, though only an accent. Peter and I both picked up again on the intriguing bacon fat I got last July with this wine. Very full, nice mouth, darker fruit and black pepper blast at the back end. Quite good."

Best showing was summer 2009


"2000 Michel Gros Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Clos du Reas

This has certainly come a long way from a year ago. Now tremendously expressive nose of red currants and berries along with plenty of barnyard and funk, it is very active and interesting. No less so dans la bouche, where true silky character only serves to accent first red currant and berry follow-through, and then later some (for me) hint of iron and definitely some crispy bacon on the side of my cheek. A fantastic showing, shocking that it is not Wine of the Night."

#3

Not that shocking when you consider the quality of your dining companions… neener

#4

Dan,
He gave you the good bottle. [grin.gif]

Nice note here on the Brulees. Never tasted this.
Thanks for a virtual taste Harry.

The Clos des Reas is such a wonderful wine from Michel Gros.
A real treat even when the bottle is not perfect.

#5

It was fortunate that the quality of wine counterbalanced the lack of quality in my dining companions. [swoon.gif] [snort.gif]

It was, in all seriousness, a great night with every wine except the barolo (only 'cause it needed another 10 years) showing in top form. The winner that night was 2000 Georges Mugneret Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots. Suffice it to say, both of them made my WOTY list for 2009.

Sorry for the thread drift, Harry!