So, it seems our Magnum Fest thingy is at risk of becoming an annual thing (vol. 4 coming up in July!), so I guess it’s no surprise that this report had to come up here eventually.
Since the original introduction in my report on Mag fest vol. 2 was so thorough (and virtually everything that happened then applied to the 3rd iteration as well), I will just copypaste it here instead of trying to invent the wheel again:
A few years ago we had an event we dubbed “Magnum Fest”. The idea here was that because in our wine tastings the tasting pours are usually so small that if we have something to eat, we really don’t get much wine to go around with the food - unless there is a specific wine reserved to be the food wine, usually in magnums. Yet still, we normally don’t get to taste how the actual tasting wines would go with food.
So the logical conclusion was that we should have a BYOB tasting, but the bottle has to be in a magnum format! That way we could both have a tasting AND drink wine with food without having to be afraid that we’d run out of wine. And - quite unsurprisingly - that event turned out to be a great success! We had great wines, great food, great company; all in all, a great evening!
After that original event we decided that: a) we needed a part 2 of the event; b) things should be bigger this time! EDIT: We had that part 2, we decided that part 3 was basically mandatory at this point.
So, again, about 20-ish of us winos traveled to the countryside, where @AskoKassinen hosted us on his spacious estate and a bunch of us had rotating shifts in helping with making the food while the other attendees polished off one magnum after another.
Basically the only requirement to join the party was to bring a magnum bottle of wine, and - unlike in Mag Fest vol. 2 - most people actually stuck with that bottle and didn’t bring any extras. Because, I assure you, we had way more wine than we needed to begin with, so any extra bottle would be overkill. Yet, still, some people did show up with two magnums. You know, just in case.
In essence, we had once again some great time in great company, drinking terrific wines and eating copious amounts of superb grub! Although I have to admit that things - once again - started to get pretty hazy towards the end of the evening; without my notebook I wouldn’t have a particularly clear picture of some of the last wines we had. And yet again, the amount of bottles was so big that the pace was way too fast for me to keep up with taking notes, which is why I missed some bottles towards the end (namely 1999 San Leonardo, 2015 Sottimano Barbaresco Cottá, 2000 Château Clauzet, 2013 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, 2019 Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** and Lindauer Rosé Brut). 
Anyways, here is the complete lineup of our demolished mags (and other formats), pictured on the following morning:
And here are only the bottles on which I managed to record at least some kind of tasting note (FWIW - that Diel Grauburgunder was my contribution):
As for the food, we had some mussels:
A shrimp salad of sorts:
And the main course:
Alright, then on to the main part - tasting notes!
- NV de Venoge Champagne Princes Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (8.6.2024)
100% Chardonnay. The label says "D XXIII", so I guess the wine has been disgorged in 2023? 12% alcohol and dosage 6 g/l. Tasted from a magnum.
Quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels rather ripe with aromas of sweet appley tones, some leesy autolytic notes, a little bit of zesty citrus fruit, light floral nuances of apple blossom and a mineral hint of chalk dust. the wine feels dry, crisp and crunchy on the palate with flavors of brisk appley fruit, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of ripe citrus fruits, light saline nuances and an autolytic hint of bread crust. The acidity feels high and the mousse comes across as soft, smooth and silky. The finish is dry, juicy and somewhat ripe with a moderately long aftertaste of fresh Golden Delicious apple, some leesy tones, a little bit of tangy salinity, light autolytic notes of French bread and a zesty hint of lemony citrus fruit.
A pleasant, refreshing and thoroughly drinkable but not particularly interesting or memorable Blanc de Blancs. Good sense of balance, but lacks depth and character. However, as the wine seems still pretty youthful with quite a lot of depth and structure, I guess the wine might turn quite interesting after a decade or so. However, I'm not sure who would like to have such an inconveniently shaped bottle hanging around in their cellar for 10 years?
(87 points) - NV Champagne Collet Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne (8.6.2024)
A blend of Pinot Noir (50%), Chardonnay (40%) and Pinot Meunier (10%) that consists of base wine (80%) and older reserve wines (20%). Aged for at least 4 years sur lattes. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Translucent but also quite deep coppery or rose hip color. The nose feels ripe and somewhat sweet-toned with aromas of juicy red apples, some leesy tones, a little bit of apricot, light biscuity notes of autolysis, a hint of spicy Pinosity, a touch of creaminess and a whiff of sweet red fruits. The wine feels dry on the palate with a silky, moderately persistent mousse and flavors of ripe red apple and some nutty notes of slivered almonds, a little bit of chalky and saline minerality, light peachy tones, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of spicy Pinosity. Rather high acidity. The finish is long, dry and somewhat spicy with flavors of chalky minerality, some bruised apple tones, a little bit of ripe red fruit, light nutty notes of almond, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of honeyed richness.
A pleasant, tasty and nuanced rosé Champagne. Nothing particularly interesting or memorable but nothing to complain either. A solid everyday pink fizz.
(88 points) - NV Champagne Collet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Noirs - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (8.6.2024)
100% Pinot Noir from 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in Rilly-la-Montagne and Chigny-les-Roses, both in Montagne de Reims. Aged for a minimum 3 years sur lattes. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted from magnum.
Pale yellow color. The nose feels ripe with aromas of yellow fruits, some nutty notes of chopped almonds, a little bit of juicy Golden Delicious apple, light spicy notes of Pinosity, a hint of leesy autolysis and a faint touch of toasted bread. The wine feels dry, broad and somewhat vinous on the palate with a moderately full body and vibrant flavors of stony minerality and ripe citrus fruits, some nutty notes of almond, light bready nuances of autolysis, a sweeter hint of ripe yellow fruits and a touch of smoky character. The mousse feels silky smooth and persistent; the acidity comes across as high and structured. The wine feels dry, crunchy and lively with a long aftertaste of citrus fruits, some saline mineral tones, a little bit of juicy yellow apple, light nutty notes of almond, a hint of leesy autolysis and a faint touch of toasty character.
A balanced and quite serious Blanc de Noirs with a nicely vinous, subtly toasty overall character. Nothing exceptional but nothing to complain, either. A solid and thoroughly enjoyable performer. Recommended.
(90 points) - NV Robert Barbichon Champagne Cuvée Réserve 4 Cépages - France, Champagne (8.6.2024)
A blend of biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir (59%), Pinot Blanc (25%), Chardonnay (9%) and Pinot Meunier (8%) from Côte des Bar, assembled from vintages 2016 (62%) and 2015 (38%). Bottled on May 16th, 2017, disgorged in 2020. 12% alcohol and dosage 2 g/l. Tasted from magnum.
Yellow-green color. The nose feels somewhat sweet-toned, slightly wild and quite characterful with aromas of crunchy golden apples, some lifted notes, a little bit of peachy stone fruit, light leesy notes of yeast, a hint of cantaloupe, a touch of lemon curd and a whiff of nutty autolysis. The wine feels dry, firm and structured on the palate with a medium body and crunchy flavors of bruised apple and nutty autolysis, some mineral notes of wet rocks, a little bit of chalky bitterness, light wild and subtly funky tones, a hint of fresh peach and a touch of sharp Granny Smith apple. The brisk acidity lends good sense of structure. A sparse, moderately long mousse. The finish is crisp, lively and slightly wild with a long, dry aftertaste of stony minerality, some fresh peachy tones, a little bit of leesy autolysis, light tart notes of Granny Smith apple, a hint of tangy salinity and a lifted touch of balsamic VA.
A tasty, characterful and subtly sauvage Champagne with a good deal of distinctive character and a great sense of freshness and minerality. I guess the wine could continue to evolve and improve with additional aging, but the wine is nonetheless drinking really well right now and doesn't require for any additional aging. Fun stuff, recommended.
(91 points) - 2021 Mirabeau Côtes de Provence Rosé Pure - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (8.6.2024)
Typically a blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (15%), Cinsaut (15%) and the remaining 10% rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Rolle. The grapes are crushed and fermented in cool temperatures without any skin maceration. The must is protected from oxygen at all times. 12,7% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar. Tasted from a magnum.
Pale, peachy color with a light seared salmon hue. The nose feels Quite ripe with aromas of peachy stone fruit, some apple jam, light notes of melon, a little bit of cantaloupe, a vague hint of something spicy and a borderline unripe, slightly vegetal touch of something herby. The wine feels juicy, dry and rather fruity on the palate with a medium body and quite light flavors of spicy red apple, some melon tones, a little bit of stony minerality, a leesy hint of creaminess and a touch of Play-Doh. The high acidity keeps the wine in balance. The finish is dry, fresh and fruity with a medium-long aftertaste of peachy stone fruit, some Fuji apple tones, a little bit of melon, light stony mineral notes, a sweeter hint of ripe apricot and a touch of crunchy white fruit.
A pleasant and balanced rosé with very little in the way of character or complexity - ie. pretty much what you'd expect from a Provençal rosé. Not bad, but nothing that would keep you even mildly interested. Enjoyable, but I don't see why all the other notes here in CT seem to regard the wine so highly because to me, this tastes pretty much like any other Provençal rosé - I find it quite impossible to find any distinguishing features from this wine. A pretty good wine, but nothing beyond that.
(86 points) - 2013 Domaine de l'Horizon Rosé - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes (8.6.2024)
100% Grenache from very old (80 yo) vineyards. Macerated briefly with the skins, then fermented in old 600-liter demi-muids with indigenous yeasts. Aged in oak on the lees for 9 months. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Pale, limpid and almost colorless peachy yellow-orange color. The nose feels rich, complex and not young nor particularly evolved with layered aromas of peachy stone fruit, some reductive smoky tones, a little bit of apple jam, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of waxy richness and a touch of creaminess. The wine feels ripe, more nuanced and understated than expressive but still wonderfully balanced on the palate with a medium body and subtly sweet-toned flavors of juicy peach-driven stone fruits, some savory wood spice, a little bit of saline minerality, light zesty notes of citrus fruits, a hint of creamy oak and a faint touch of wild waxy character. The overall feel is somewhat tangy and a bit oily but also beautifully fresh and structured with its high acidity. The finish is dry, crisp and lively with its long, lively aftertaste of ripe whitecurrants, some developed waxy tones, a little bit of juicy appley fruit, light red-toned cherry nuances, a hint of creamy oak and a mineral touch of tangy salinity.
A beautiful, nuanced and somewhat developed yet not particularly aged rosé that is remarkably fresh, precise and mineral for a wine from so deep south. The overall feel is - for the lack of a better word - Burgundian, in the sense that with its high acidity, subtly woody and creamy nuances, cool mineral backbone and bright, zesty citrus fruits, this wine feels like something not unlike a white Burgundy that just happens to be a rosé wine. From Roussillon, not Burgundy. This description might not make sense, but that is almost always the feeling I get from these Horizon rosés. They are wines that are hard not to love - they are not immediately impressive or particularly expressive wines, but with their remarkable sense of freshness, minerality and almost kaleidoscopic array of nuances, they are definitely in a class of their own. Furthermore, there are not that many rosé wines that can age effortlessly for more than a decade - and still feel relatively youthful at that age! This has been an absolute steal at its original price of 55€ for a magnum, but even with all the delivery costs and other additional fees, this has been a terrific purchase at 77€.
(93 points) - 2013 Gini Soave Classico Superiore Contrada Salvarenza Vecchie Vigne - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico (8.6.2024)
100% Garganega from the very old Salvarenza Cru, where the vines are over 100 yo and the oldest third of the vines are still ungrafted. Fermented in large oak casks and 228-liter French oak pièces. No SO2 added during the vinification process. Aged for 12 months on the lees in large oak casks and 228-liter pièces. 13% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Moderately deep golden yellow color. The nose feels rich and very sweet-toned with rather unctuous aromas of juicy apricot and apple jam, some caramel tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light floral nuances, a sweet hint of acacia honey and a touch of toasty oak spice. The wine feels dry, powerful and slightly oily on the palate with a full body and complex flavors of nectarine and honeydew melon, some fragrant notes of honeysuckle and perfumed floral spice, a little bit of toasty oak, light honeyed nuances, a hint of apple jam and a woody touch of savory oak spice. Despite the ripeness and the rather hefty size of the wine, it is still high in acidity, making the overall feel surprisingly balanced and structured. The finish is ripe, long and quite acid-driven with a rather concentrated aftertaste of juicy Golden Delicious apples and honeydew melon, some caramel tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light red apple notes, hints of floral and herby character and a touch of slivered almond.
A very big and impressive but also very atypical Soave Classico that is much weightier and more concentrated than its peers with a somewhat noticeable - yet not overdone - oak impact that only accentuates the sense of power and ripeness in the bold old-vine fruit. The wine is starting to show some age now, at +10 years of age, but I doubt the wine is still at its peak. Perhaps not that far away anymore, but there still seems to be a little bit of room for further evolution. Although I prefer a lighter, less opulent and more acid-driven style of Soave Classico, this was still a pretty lovely effort all the same. It was also less ripe and more reasonably proportioned that the rather massive 2015 vintage I tasted a few years ago, which was also nice. Good stuff, recommended.
(92 points) - 1990 Schlossgut Diel Grauburgunder - Germany, Nahe (8.6.2024)
11,5% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Luminous, medium-deep golden color with a pale amber core. The nose feels rich and sweet-toned with complex aromas of bruised apple, some evolved caramel notes, a little bit of dried apricot, light toasty notes of roasted nuts, a hint of apple jam, a touch of burnt sugar and a fragrant whiff of dried flowers. The wine feels dry, lively and very evolved on the palate with a light body and focused flavors of beeswax and bruised apple, some stony and saline mineral notes, a little bit of honeyed richness, light nuances of saffron, a hint of wizened nectarine and a nutty touch of toasted almonds. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, dry and complex with an evolved aftertaste of roasted nuts and bruised apple, some honeyed tones, a little bit of saffron, light mineral notes of wet rocks, a hint of smoke and a sweet touch of dried apricot.
A sophisticated and beautifully evolved Pinot Gris that is remarkably alive, considering how the wine is more than 1/3 century old and only 11,5% in ABV despite being fermented fully dry - suggesting that the grapes probably haven't been particularly ripe at harvest. Still the wine is remarkably vibrant and intensely flavored; it hasn't ventured deep into that anonymous, overtly tertiary old-wine territory yet. Most likely the wine has reached its plateau of maturity many years - possibly even decades - ago, yet it still just sits there firmly, not showing any signs of giving up and falling apart. An amazing wine and shows tremendous value at 44€ for a magnum.
(93 points) - 2015 Weingut Lehnert-Veit Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Trocken Gruft - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8.6.2024)
This is the same wine as Weingut Lehnert-Veit Piesporter Goldtröpfchen GG Riesling, but the idea is that this Gruft version is bottled only in magnums, since "Gruft is so big it doesn't fit into standard-sized bottle". Aged in oak barriques. 13,5% alcohol.
Moderately deep honeyed-yellow color. The nose feels rich, sweet-toned and slightly evolved with aromas of acacia honey and lemon marmalade, some cantaloupe tones, light petrolly notes of diesel, a little bit of creamy oak, a hint of juicy stone fruits and a faint touch of sweet wood spice. The wine feels dry, firm and concentrated on the palate with a medium body and focused, complex flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some developed honeyed tones, a little bit of toasty oak spice, light juicy notes of ripe red apple, oaky hints of caramel and creaminess and a touch of salinity. The wine definitely feels like a Riesling with some oak, but curiously in a manner not that similar to that of Von Winning. The bracing acidity lends a lot of freshness, structure and intensity to the wine. The finish is long, rich and complex with a powerful, dry aftertaste of steely minerality and zesty citrus fruits, some savory wood spice, light honeyed tones, a little bit of ripe red apple, oaky hints of caramel and creamy character and a petrolly touch of diesel.
An impressively complex, concentrated and structured Riesling with obvious oak aromatics that - for some reason - don't really seem out of place here. The wine was a stunner when I tasted it four years ago and now it feels it has only picked up some additional aged complexity without compromising any of its freshness, energy or vibrancy in the process. Despite its slightly evolved tones, I'm sure the wine will continue to develop and improve even further from here, based only on how very youthful and vibrant it still is now, at the age of 9 years. An idiosyncratic but also very impressive and complex dry Riesling. Very highly recommended.
(95 points) - 2021 Oddero-Monlià Derthona - Italy, Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi (8.6.2024)
100% Timorasso made with purchased fruit from the comune of Monleale, Tortona. Fermented spontaneously. Aged in stainless steel tanks and Austrian oak casks for a year. The wine is vinified by Monlià, but the wine is bottled by Oddero. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, pale yellow color. The nose feels herby with some sweeter peach-driven yellow-fruited notes, a little bit of sharp minerality and a hint of grapefruit. The wine feels youthful, dry and crisp on the palate with a light-to-medium body and brisk, mineral flavors of incisive steely character and some smoky reduction, a little bit of fresh Golden Delicious apple, light waxy tones, a hint of angular stony character, a hint of borderline under-ripe pear and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, lively and dry with a moderately long aftertaste of fresh red apple, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of under-ripe pear, light smoky notes of reduction, a hint of juicy white peach and a touch of smoky reduction.
A pleasant, tasty and still very youthful little drop. The wine is surprisingly - and atypically - crisp, zippy and light in body for a Timorasso; usually the variety produces quite rich and hefty white wines that combine minerality and high acidity with equally high levels of alcohol and often quite fat, almost Viognier-like full body. This wine, on the other hand, had noticeably low level of ABV and was very light on its feet. While enjoyably lively and refreshing in its own right, the wine seemed more like a regular, acid-driven white wine, lacking the unique qualities one associates with the cultivar. However, seeing how remarkably youthful the wine still is, I guess it still has lots of time to pick up some depth, weight and richness in the cellar. Good stuff, but unlike the best Timorassos, this wine won't be blowing your socks off.
(88 points) - 2020 Frank John Riesling Amphore Buntsandstein - Germany, Pfalz (8.6.2024)
100% organically farmed Riesling. Fermented spontaneously, aged for 2 years on the lees in amphorae. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 12,5% alcohol. Total production 630 bottles. Tasted from a magnum.
Pale yellow-green color. The nose feels sweet and somewhat waxy with aromas of juicy golden apples, some leesy creamy tones, a little bit of wild funky character, light crunchy notes of fresh nectarine and a hint of beeswax. The wine feels lively, dry and youthful on the palate with a medium body and fresh flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light wild notes of waxy funk, a hint of fresh nectarine and a subtly bitter touch of pithy pomelo. The high acidity lends good sense of structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and a bit wild with a dry aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some waxy funk, a little bit of steely minerality, light tart notes of Granny Smith apple, a bitter hint of pithy pomelo and a touch of phenolic spice.
A nice, structured and tasty Riesling with a subtly sauvage overall character. Not a particularly flashy or impressive wine in any way, but nothing to complain either. I guess the wine will continue to evolve and improve in a bottle - which might help the wine to pick up some depth and additional complexity - but the wine doesn't really require further aging as it is perfectly drinkable already now. A pleasant weekday Riesling.
(89 points) - 2017 Domaine Sylvain Langoureau Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce-sous-le-Bois - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru (8.6.2024)
100% Chardonnay from La Pièce-sous-le-Bois, the highest-altitude 1er Cru vineyard in Meursault. Fermented spontaneously. Aged in predominantly old oak barrels for 12 months. 13% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Luminous lemon-yellow color with greenish highlights. The nose feels fresh, precise and expressive with aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple and salty ocean air, some reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, a little bit of creamy oak and vanilla, light peachy nuances, a woody hint of savory oak spice, a touch of grilled pineapple and a sweet whiff of juicy white peach. The wine feels quite ripe yet still very focused, nuanced and slightly concentrated on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of zesty citrus fruits, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light oaky notes of vanilla and savory wood spice, sweet hints of grilled pineapple and white peach and a faint reductive touch of flinty smoke. The brisk acidity lends great sense of energy and structure to the wine - along with a tiniest bit of phenolic grip on the gums, suggesting high levels of dry extract. The finish is juicy, nuanced and harmonious with a long, intensely-flavored aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and saline minerality, some sharp Granny Smith apple tones, a little bit of vanilla and creamy oak, light grilled pineapple nuances, an incisive hint of steely character and a touch of smoky reduction.
A beautiful, intensely-flavored and still quite tightly-wound 1er Cru Meursault that is remarkably youthful for its age at almost 7 years of age. I tasted the wine for the first time a few months ago and it was absolutely fantastic then - this magnum version of the same wine was more or less identical to the bottle. This really is a banger. Fantastic stuff. Highly recommended.
(94 points) - 1996 Rosenblum Cellars Zinfandel Napa Valley Reserve George Hendry Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley (8.6.2024)
100% Zinfandel from the George Hendry vineyard, planted to Zinfandel (and Pinot Noir) between 1973 and 1975. Vinified with extended maceration. Aged for 24 months in 60-gallon (270 liters) oak barrels. 15% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Somewhat evolved blackish-red color with a translucent, figgy-maroon rim. The nose feels rich, dark-toned and quite sweetly-fruited with attractive, complex aromas of boysenberries and strawberries, some herby spice, a little bit of evolved meaty character, light pruney tones, a hint of wizened figs and a touch of blackberry jam. The wine feels evolved, chewy and intensely flavored on the palate with a full body and concentrated flavors of ripe boysenberries and black cherries, some pruney tones, a little bit of minty greenness, light sweet-toned nuances of toasty oak and vanilla, a hint of raisiny dark fruit and a developed touch of meat stew. The overall feel is impressively firm and structured for a Zinfandel with the high acidity and ample yet resolved, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is rich, long and moderately grippy with a complex, evolved aftertaste of prunes and raisiny tones, some boysenberry jam, light black cherry notes, a little bit of tobacco, a hint of toasty oak and a touch of meaty tertiary character.
A fantastic vintage of Rosenblum's Zinfandel, definitely showing some age, yet still coming across as remarkably vibrant and intensely-flavored for the age. I guess the wine is at its plateau of maturity and has been there for a while, ie. it has been at this phase for quite some time, but it doesn't feel as if the wine is going to fall apart anytime soon, so I don't see any reasons to hurry with this wine - at least if it is from a magnum, like this one. The overall feel here is maybe a bit more toasty and oaky than the other similarly aged 1990's Rosenblums I've tasted, but I don't know if it is because of this particular cuvée or if the wine has just aged differently in a mag. However, apart from these toasty oak tones, the wine is as classic as these old-school Zins come: savory, firm and structured with a great acidic backbone and a rather old-world feel to everything. A beautiful Zinfandel, really a banger.
(93 points) - 1995 Rosenblum Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Hendry Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder (8.6.2024)
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the George Hendry vineyard, planted to Zinfandel (and Pinot Noir) between 1973 and 1975 - I suppose Cabernet Sauvignon came later on? Vinified with extended maceration. Aged for 24 months in 60-gallon (270 liters) oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Deep, dark almost fully opaque blackish-red color with a deep maroon hue towards the rim - the wine looks much younger than you'd expect. The nose feels sweet-toned and fragrant with attractive aromas of wizened dark fruits, bilberries and blackcurrant jam, some raisiny tones, a little bit of sweet nail polish VA, light evolved meaty tones, a hint of pipe tobacco, a touch of minty greenness and a whiff of dried dates. The wine feels dry, firm and quite evolved on the palate with a medium body and complex flavors of bilberries and wizened blackcurrants, some old leather, light balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of tobacco, dried-fruit hints of prunes and raisiny dark fruit and an evolved touch of gamey meat. The overall feel is still remarkably structured, all thanks to the combination of high acidity and ripe yet pretty formidable and rather grippy tannins. The finish is long, firm and grippy with a complex and quite seductive aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants and ripe bilberries, some tobacco, light balsamic notes of VA, a hint of dried black cherry and a woody touch of pencil shavings and savory oak spice along with a sweeter suggestion of vanilla oak.
A beautiful, complex and eminently tasty Napa Cab at its peak. This was very similar to the magnum we tasted a few months ago, only showing maybe even a bit more vibrant fruit while the oaky tones seemed more integrated, at times almost imperceptible. Considering how the wine is almost 30 years old, it is still remarkably youthful for its age and especially its structure is very firm and relatively tightly-knit. Sure, the wine does show signs of age, but a lot less than you'd expect - the wine seemed somewhat more youthful than the 1996 Rosenblum Hendry Vineyard Zinfandel (also from a magnum) we tasted at the same time, and - unsurprisingly for the variety - showing less ripeness and more savory tones than the Zin. All in all, a superb example of aged Napa Cab that is quite amazing already now, but shows even a little bit of potential for future development (at least in a magnum). Terrific value at 99€ for a magnum.
(94 points) - 2012 Domaine Rimbert Saint-Chinian Le Mas au Schiste - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Chinian (8.6.2024)
Typically a blend of biodynamically farmed Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, about one third of each. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 2 weeks. Some sources the wine is aged entirely in old, neutral oak barrels; others say the wine is aged only partially in oak. 13% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose feels ripe and surprisingly youthful for the age with aromas of dark plummy fruit and tobacco, some balsamico tones, light nuances of cassis, a little bit of fresh blueberry, a hint of leesy creaminess, a faint lifted touch of nail polish VA and a whiff of farmhouse funk. The wine feels dry, savory and pretty dark-toned with a medium-to-moderately full body and still pretty youthful flavors of ripe dark berries, some fresh blueberry tones, a little bit of sweeter plummy fruit, light notes of tobacco, a hint of balsamic VA and a touch of earthy. The overall feel is pretty tightly-knit with the high acidity and still rather assertive and moderately grippy tannins. The finish is savory, dark-toned and quite grippy with a long aftertaste of tobacco and ripe dark fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of juicy blackcurrant, light earthy tones, a hint of balsamico VA and a touch of saline minerality.
A firm, savory and enjoyably serious Languedoc red that does show some ripeness - as is to be expected from wines from here - but at the same time not that much sweetness or softness. This is a firm, structure-driven traditionalist red with pleasantly subtle undertones of sauvage funk. I was surprised how youthful the wine was for its age - I would've guessed the wine was less than half of its actual age. Good stuff; I can imagine this wine will continue to evolve and improve, at least in magnum format.
(91 points) - 2013 Heinrich Mayr (Nusserhof) Gloria - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Vino da Tavola (8.6.2024)
100% old-vine Lagrein from vineyards up to 60 (or, according to some sources, up to 90) years old. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 4 to 6 weeks, aged for 2,5 years in old oak bottis. Bottled as Vino da Tavola. 12,5% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Rather opaque and slightly evolved black cherry color. The nose feels savory and subtly wild with aromas of ripe forest fruits, some fresh blueberry tones, a little bit of tobacco, light meaty nuances, a hint of leathery funk and a touch of earthy spice. The wine feels firm, lively and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of ripe dark forest fruits and tart lingonberries, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tobacco, light savory notes of meaty umami, a hint of leathery funk and a faint touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is very balanced and enjoyably structured with the high acidity and ripe yet firm, somewhat grippy medium tannins. The dark-toned finish is long, savory and somewhat grippy with a rather intense aftertaste of fresh bilberries and tart lingonberries, some tobacco, light mineral notes of gravelly earth and salinity, a little bit of old leather, a sweeter hint of ripe dark berries and a touch of peppery spice.
This is consistently one of the greatest Lagrein wines I know. I guess the wine was a tad less punchy and muscular as the 2011 vintage we tasted a year ago (also from magnum), but otherwise this was cut from the same cloth: vibrant blueberry and lingonberry-driven forest fruit flavors, some funky undertones, rather savory overall flavor profile and great sense of acidity. Although not a youngster anymore, it feels like this wine could not only keep, but also evolve for many more years in a bottle - at least in a magnum format. Terrific stuff, highly recommended.
(93 points) - 1996 Château Poujeaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (8.6.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (46%), Merlot (43%), Cabernet Franc (6%) and Petit Verdot (5%) harvested between late September and the first half of October from vineyards averaging 30 years in age. Aged in french oak barriques (50% new). Total production 250,000 liters (77% of all wine produced at the estate). 12,5% alcohol. Tasted from a magnum.
Rather dense, moderately opaque and somewhat evolved blackish-maroon color. The nose feels quite classically styled and immediately identifiable as a Bordeaux with the aromas of dark plums and wizened blackcurrants, some woody notes of pencil shavings, a little bit of earth, light crunchy lingonberry and redcurrant tones, a hint of old leather and an autumnal touch of damp leaves. The wine feels dry, dense and moderately evolved on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of wizened blackcurrants, some earth, a little bit of old leather, light notes of tobacco, woody hints of cedar and pencil shavings and a touch of tart red plum. The overall feel is still pretty firm and enjoyably structured with the moderately high acidity and still somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and moderately grippy with a long aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants, some leathery tones, a little bit of balsamic VA, light woody notes of cedar and pencil shavings, a hint of dried red plum and a herbaceous touch of leafy character.
A sophisticated, harmonious and balanced Bordeaux at full maturity. There's nothing special here, but nothing's amiss, either - this is pretty much everything you'd expect from an evolved 90's claret. Good sense of structure, savory yet slightly sweet-toned fruit, leafy undertones and tertiary complexity. As the wine feels quite evolved, it has most likely reached its plateau of maturity some time ago and won't evolve anywhere from here but down; since the wine isn't going to fall apart anytime soon, I'd say it's best to drink any remaining bottles sooner rather than later.
(92 points) - 2023 Albert Gessinger Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** Alte Reben Caldo Infernale - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (8.6.2024)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling from a particularly hot plot in the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard known as "Kalk", recognized since the Roman times. "Kalk" doesn't actually refer to the chalk content of the soil, because the plot isn't particularly chalky - instead, "Kalk" comes from a historical Roman name "Calidus" that means "hot". That is why this goes by the Italian name, which means "infernally hot". 7,5% alcohol, 90 g/l residual sugar and 9,5 g/l acidity. Bottled under a screwcap.
Pale lime-green color. The nose feels markedly primary and quite surprisingly floral - almost Muscat-y - with aromas of sweet grapey fruit, some rosewater, light stony mineral notes, a little bit of apple blossom, a hint of exotic spices, a touch of lemon marmalade and a whiff of ripe white peach. The wine feels sweet yet firm and brisk on the palate with a relatively light body and intense, youthful flavors of lemon marmalade and sweet grapey fruit, some Muscat-y floral notes of rose petals and orange blossom, light steely mineral notes, a little bit of tart Granny Smith apple, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of exotic spice. Although the wine is technically fully sweet, the bracing acidity makes the wine feel just medium sweet, offsetting most of the sweetness from the residual sugar. The finish is crisp, medium-dry-to-medium-long and quite intense with a rather long aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, some honeydew melon, light primary notes of grapey fruit and sour apple candies, a little bit of tangy salinity, floral hints of orange blossom and rosewater and a touch of juicy white peach.
A brisk, focused and surprisingly sophisticated vintage of Caldo Infernale. Definitely not the same kind of concentrated powerhouse as this label can be in the best vintages, but nevertheless shows the intensity and electric energy this specific parcel so often produces. The overall feel here is still very primary; the almost Muscat-like floral character makes the wine quite captivating with its heady, perfumed aromatics, but at the same time maybe a bit banal and not that serious. However, I'm sure the wine starts to show its true colors as it ages and those primary qualities start to fade - and as the wine seems to be built for aging, I have no doubts this wine will easily age and evolve for a few decades. Delicious stuff from the sweeter end with lots of upside. Great value at 19,50€.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
