After popping a bottle of this at a recent tasting dinner (Saturday), which was both horribly corked and oxidized, I thought I would try its cell mate. Chalk and cheese. Under cork back then of course, but good on Kumeu moving to screwcaps.
This is a light golden color with slight green-of-spectrum tint. I’m guessing this bottle saw a bit more sulphur than the last - showing just a hint of reductive flint on the nose, mealy and lactic notes but not at all overdone. Flavours are still youthful / secondary and there is no way I would have guessed the vintage blind (maybe '06?). White-fleshed fruit, caramel sweetness and grippy texture, presumably from good dry extract and acidity. I actually double and triple checked the label to make sure I hadn’t pulled another young vintage by mistake. Finish carries through with some green apple (rather than baked) and minerals. This is seriously good… apart from bottle variation ! 91
If the taste memories from last Saturday’s tasting were not fresh in my mind, I’m certain I would have written about how this would be easily mistaken for serious WB. The “tell” for me is in the level of fruit ripeness and sweetness - absolutely not “new world” ripe, but more generous (and slightly sweeter) than typical WB. Maybe like a good Combettes.