KEVIN SIDDERS @ TILIA - (12/20/2011)
Kevin Sidders was in town for Christmas, so Siggy and I arranged to meet him at Tilia’s for some good food and wine. The three of us spent two weeks in France together in 2006 and spent much of the night fondly recalling our many adventures in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley. Food and service were both exceptional again, as usual.
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2005 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Popped and poured. Started out a bit closed, but really seemed to open up beautifully over the first few courses. Light gold color. Soaring, ethereal nose featuring clean aromas of citrus and honey. Large-scaled on the palate for Chablis, but with plenty of structure to keep things in balance. Beautiful expression of fresh fruit. Finishes with a nice burst of acidity and long, lingering flavors. I’d say this is still holding back and could use additional time in the cellar (if you dare). (93 pts.) -
1988 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Popped and poured. Came straight from the car and was far too cold to start, but opened up very nicely as it warmed over the course of about 30-60 minutes. Deep red color. Haunting nose of dark red cherry fruit with spice, earth and plenty of complexity. Flavors are amazing with red fruit, mushroom and iron dominating; turns towards cranberries/tartness by mid-palate. The weight is excellent and it is perfectly balanced with fully resolved tannin. A beautiful wine that I would have loved to sip and savor all night if there hadn’t been two more wines. (93 pts.) -
1993 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Popped and poured. This was poured after the Beaucastel that had opened up nicely, and this seemed totally closed down by comparison. In time it opened up, and seemed to get better and better the longer it was open. The nose gives reserved aromas of sour red cherries, spice and cocoa. Flavors of red fruit and earth start out fairly compact but become more expansive with each sip. This is a mid-weight beauty and the texture is surprisingly silky and elegant. There is no risk of decline here, and I suspect this will continue to develop and open up for many years to come. (93 pts.) -
2002 Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Popped and poured. Dense blackish-red color. The nose gives a big whiff of primary red fruit along with some spice, oak and smoke. On the palate this is a bruiser. Flavors are still fairly primary, dominated by red fruit and oak. Approaching full-bodied in weight and positively packed with fruit, but with just enough structure to keep it from appearing soft/fat. Still extremely tannic. Great length on the finish. This wine needs a few more years in the cellar and could continue to improve for quite awhile. (91 pts.)
It was great to catch up with Kevin again and hear about his efforts in the wine business. With luck the next time we catch up with him will be in Italy or France tasting wines.
Posted from CellarTracker