TN: Joe Dressner tasting 4/22/09 - Los Angeles

WINE TALK
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I was also at the LA tasting, and yes Sarah, I too am excited these wines will be more available on the west coast. I have long read the notes of others with envy, but no more. I was there to taste for business, so I didn’t try all the wines.

The following wines were poured by the winemakers.

From France
Luneau-Papin
07 PdlG VV - excellent, expressive, balanced.
'05 L d’Or - higher acidity than '06/'07. balanced and elegant. Super wine.
'02 SE Clos des Noelles: 6 mos on the lees, rich, perfumed, oustanding.

Dom. du Closel
'06 Jalousie: very good, slightly sharp, easy to drink
'06 Clos Papillon: 2 yrs on the lees, rich, crisp, structured, excellent
'05 Clos Papillon: richer than '06, needs time, will be the better wine.

Francois Pinon
'06 No Dose: crisp, pure, delightful.
'07 Silex Noir: from Schist, very good, concentrated fruit, expressive, very unique.

Franck Peillot
NV Montagnieu Brut: 60% Chardonnay, 30% Altesse, 10%: bright, sharp acidity, clean, a little clipped.
'07 Altesse de Montagnieu: 100% Altesse: red berries, great structure, aromatic, very good+.
'07 Pinot de Bugey: Pinot Noir, earthy, deep fruit, carbonic maceration, good length.
'06 Mondeuse de Bugey: Dark, structured, deep and concentrated, will have sediment. Oustanding.

Dom. le Briseau
07 You Are So Bubbly (Granache, Cab Fr, Cinsault): Pink, decent, light, clean flavors, hollow mid., finishes dry and short.
'07 You Are So Cool (Sauv Bl): Earth, less fruit more structure, yeasty?
'07 You Are So Nice (Cot, Gamay): Good fruit, balanced, earthy, nice.
'07 You Are So Fine (Chenin Bl): Sparkling-not so good.
'06 La Derobee-Coteaux du Loir (Pinot d’Aunis): Best of the line up, excellent, balanced, deep.

J P Brun, Terres Dorees
'08 Beaujolais Blanc Chardonnay: Super wine, must buy. Easily out classes it’s level.
'07 Condrieu: high toned, heady, floral, too much for me. expensive.
'08 Beaujolais l"Ancien: Village level, bright, cherry, balanced, good structure. Very good.
'08 Brouilly: Deeper, bright red fruit, earth, clean flavors, great acidity, Very good+.
'08 Fleurie: Floral-Fleury like, again bright red fruit, very good.
'08 Morgon: Back up the truck!
'07 Cote Rotie: No wood, Super clean flavors, zero bret/animal, some blue fruits, spice, refreshing.

Dom. L-C Desvignes
'07 Morgon Cote du Py : grippy tannins, structured, rich and drinking quite well.
'07 Morgon Cote du Py Javernieres: clay soil and lower elev., coarser tannins, bright acidity, +structure, good length.
'06 Morgon Cote du Py: 300 m. elevation, dark crimson, deep, chewy tannins but drinking well, could use a few years.
'06 Morgon Cote du Py Javernieres: closed, tight, tannin and acid.

Dom. Marechal
'06 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Gravel: very nice and expressive wine, shows some class, could improve with time.
'06 Chorey-Les-Beaune: okay but not very memorable, the Ladoix is much better.
'06 Ladoix: aromatic, somewhat complex, nice length, drinking very well.
'07 Savigny Les Beaune: village wine but 40+ yr old vines, smooth, bright cherry, sauve, will improve.
'07 Pommard “La Chaniere”: Very Pommard, rustic, grippy tannins, bright acidity, deep red/black fruits. very good+

Dom. le Belliviere (Jasnieres)
'06 Les Rosiers: 100% Chenin Bl, rich and sweet, 7gms of NRS.
'07 Les Rosiers: much better, completely dry, excellent length and focus.
'06 l’Effraie Blanc: very clean, good acidity, balanced.
'07 Le Rouge Gorge: 100% Pinot d’Aunis-earth, dried leaves, coarse, chunky tannins.

Eric Texier
'08 CdR Blanc: primarily Grenache Blanc with other stuff. Good quaffer, nothing complex but not dull.
'07 CdR Brezeme Blanc Rousanne: crisp acidity, flinty, vibrant, very good+
'08 CdR Viogner: typical Viogner, not my cup of tea.
'08 Opale Viogner: dessert wine with 70 gms of NRS, extremely smooth, not sweet as would suggest, great acidity, could be aperitif or Eric suggests with fresh fruit.
'07 CdR Rouge: clean, smooth, structured, very good+.
'07 CdR Vaison-la-Romaine Grenache: Super good, very friendly bright strawberry, clean
'07 CdR Village Rasteau Grenache: higher toned, deep fruit, slightly tannic, structured, very good
'05 CdR Village St. Gervais Cadinieres Grenache: elegant, deep raspberry, balanced, excellent.
'06 CdR Brezeme Syrah: as good as it gets at this price level. Just loaded with fruit structure and balance. Unmistakably Syrah.
'07 CdR Brezeme Syrah: Some reduction, needs time, could be great.
'06 CdP Rouge: 100% destemed, 50% whole cluster, 100% Grenache aged in 500 gallon foudre. Bright fruit, garague, glycerine, smooth clean finish, very good.
'05 CdP Rouge Improbable: 100% Grenache, same treatment as the CdP plus no racking/topping or sulphur after primary ferment aged in neutral oak. 1 barrel in '05. Super good, exciting, pure, elegant. Not what I expected.
'06 Cote Rotie VV: Neutral oak, 100% Syrah. Very nice but missing the leather, animal quality I love about CR.

These wines were serve yourself:
'07 Pepiere Classic: Very nice with the classic Muscadet elements. This wine is always consistent.
'07 Pepiere Clos des Briords: VV, very nice and open, more structure, very good+.
'08 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Les Monts Damnes: grassy, cirtus, vibrant, balanced, what I want from Sancerre, very good+.
'07 Chateau d’Oupia Les Heretiques: 100% Carignan. Slightly chunky and rough but excellent fruit. Very good. A buy at this price.
'07 Chateau d’Oupia Minervios: didn’t get the cepage, very good+, more class, vibrant, good length. Another buy.
'05 Mas des Chimeres: Never understood the hopla on this wine, bitter, nothing great especially at the price.
'07 Clos Roche Blanche-Cabernet Franc: Varietal correct, earth, dry tannin, pretty good.
'07 Clos Roche Blanche-Cot: Yuk! Cows ass.
'06 Terre des Chardons “Marginal” (Costieres des Nimes): Very nice, earth and chocolate, balanced. very good.

The following wines were poured by the winemakers:

From Italy

Vittorio Bera (Piemonte)
'07 Arcese Bianco: A blend of Favorita, Arneis & Cortese. Impression is sweet and rich, some acidity but I find many of these wines flabby like and this was no exception.
'07 & '08 Moscato d’Asti: Alessandra said these were quite different. I didn’t see it, but I’m not a big follower of Moscato. Both were very good versions, quite rich, peaches in spades.
'06 Dolcetto Monferrato Bricco della Serra: vines are in Monferrato outside of Asti. No Oak in the ageing. Rich, chocolate/expresso, grapey, nice finish, very good.
'06 Barbera d’Asti Ronco Malo: No oak again. Very rich, earth, mocha, baked bread, clean berry. Very good+. Possible buy.

A.A. Montesecondo (Chianti Classico)
'07 Rosso Toscana IGT: drinks like a CC. Very nice on the palate, ther is an elegance here. Possible buy.
'05 Chianti Classico: Super wine, drinks like a Reserva. Expressive, balanced, elegant. Buy.
'06 Chianti Classico: As good but younger and higher acidity than '05. Excellent. Buy.
'05 Rosso del Rospo IGT: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. High acid, some CS character but not a lot. Pass.
'05 Petit Verre d’Ot: You guessed it, 100% Petit Verdot. Deep, rich, mocha, expresso, palate staining. Finishes nicely. Possible buy.

Occhipinti (Sicilia)
'08 SP68 DOC Rosso Vittoria: 50% Frappato & 10% Nero d’Avola. Huge nose of Raspberry. Almost feels like a wet Martini on the palate. Arianna says this needs age and go up to 25 yrs in the cellar. Not a favorite.
'06 Rosso Sicilia IGT: 100% Frappato, very elegant, raspberry, charming, earthy, high acidity but rich though light on it’s feet. Tough sell at that price but very good+
'07 Rosso Sicilia Siccagno Nero d"Avola: from limestone vineyards, clean and bright fruit, balanced and not the typical chocolate Nero. Another tough sell but very good.

There was a lot more wine to try and I wished I could have stayed. Joe Dressner has a killer book and I hope the rest of these wines make it off the right coast.

2

My personal standouts/opines:

Domaine du Closel Savennieres Evelyne de Jessey:
2006 Clos Papillon–this to me was a perfect expression of Chenin Blanc, beautiful balance in acidity, structure and minerality.
2006 Jalousie–Interesting–almost a waxiness, oiliness to this wine, bone dry with high acidity and the schisty minerality is evident. I’d love to see how it ages. Apparently there’s extensive lees contact and batonnage in this wine? It does it well, I think. Slight oxidation, but it works.

Francois Pinon
My favorite was the off-list wine–a Brut non-dose. Flinty (in a good way) great acid.

Franck Peillot
I love the fact that Franck brought a map to show people where in Sam hell Bugey is.
2007 Altesse de Montagnieu–yup, the grape is Altesse, believed to be a relative to furmint. Interesting wine
2006 Mondeuse–Awesome! I love Refosco, so … there’s that bitter finish. I like

Domaine le Briseau
Let me just preface this by saying I was in love with these wines before even having them. Read this couple’s bio on the website and I just love the story. Their photo together just made me so happy :slight_smile:
2007 You are so nice–Malbec and Gamay. I liked this wine because of the integration of tea-like aromas.
Coteaux-du-Loir “La Derobee”–Pineau d’Aunis! SOmething I can’t get enough of since I found this varietal. It’s a fun grape. WIld aromas and tastes.

Terres Dorees–Beaujolais, Jean Paul-Brun
I’ve been a fan of Brun’s ever since his L’Ancienne was declassified. Rebel! I hunted down the l’Ancienne cross the entire country when I learned of this new. I hope LA carries this wine. It’s a lovely expression of Beaujolais and a great price! To quote Polaner’s website on this wine: Brun wants to make “old-style” Beaujolais and his vinification differs from the prevailing practices in the region. He believes that the charm of the Gamay’s fruit is best expressed by the grapes’ indigenous yeast, rather than by adding industrial yeast.

2008 Beaujolais Blanc Chard
A wonderful Chard because it’s UNchard-like. Excellent fruit, citrus, apples, great balance.
2007 Condrieu
My first Condrieu experience was a bad one because the wine was over the hill, so this was a first for me–and I have to say, it’s everything “they” said it would be. Classic flavor profile of cornflowers, acacia and hay Yay!
I agree the '08 L’Ancienne could use some time in the bottle. Can’t wait! I loved the '07!
My favorites of his Cru Bojo line up were those from Morgon and Moulin a Vent, and then of course there was the fun sparkler the NV FRV100! A mousseux aromatique made from (drumroll) Gamay! It’s a fun wine, and Jean, with what little English he did speak, he understood the word, “fun” and agreed :slight_smile: I love Jean Paul Brun!

Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes
I agree with Larry–the '06 Morgon Cote du Py and the Javernieres were standouts here–preferred 06 to 07.

Domaine Marechal, Burgundy
Standout wine: 2006 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee Gravel–sourced from 1.6 ha in the communes of Bligny-lés-Beaune and Pommard. Elegant, lovely fruit and finish.
I also enjoyed the 2006 Ladoix. The 2007s were SO YOUNG, but I have a hunch will do well with some age :slight_smile:

Vittorio Bera & Figli
I cannot say enough good things about the wines from this producer. Alessandra was there to pour and answer questions and I just about melted over her. What a talented producer and classicaly elegant lady! They are primarily known for their Moscato, which was fantastic! But I found their other wines to be home runs:
2007 Arcese Bianco: HOLY SMOKES WHAT A WINE! It’s a blend of Cortese, Favorita and Arneis. THis wine spoke to me. It was so unusual and proof positive that yes, white wines can be so enjoyable complex. My tasting notes–wow, check this out: herbal, earth, peat, sage, gaminess, cilantro and rosemary. This wine is kinky! The flavors are astounding. I love Arneis any old day, but the Cortese adds nice fruit and the Favorita–no idea what it adds, but, what a name! I must find me a bottle.
2006 Barbera–she had decanted this wine and OMG it was gorgeous. I didn’t write down any notes but I remember a distinctly long finish with notes of cocoa. This wine is not fined or filtered–it adds a wildness to the wine, a gritty rustic quality–not over the top though, elegantly executed. A pretty wine. THis wine spoke to me–nay, it sang!

Campi di Fonterenza, Montalcino
By the time I worked my way over here, I must admit, I was tired. It was 90 degrees outside, and about just under 87 degrees at Campanile. I had on pants. I was ready to sit down, as were the producers, who were all seated near the lone air conditioning duct trying to beat the heat. But then Francesca jumped up from her seat, smiles and sun-kissed skin to present the wines. Gorgeous! I wish I had better notes here. But I can say they were all excellent. Gorgeous fruit on all. The 2006 Rosso was my favorite. I would take the IGT Sangio for a nice every day red wine–and I don’t say the words every day and red wine together often!

Eric Texier
Eric’s a gas. A jovial man. And what a line up of wines. There were so many! I was particularly eager about Eric after reading about the O Pale wine–described here from Dressner’s website:A Bordeaux native who has lived in or around Lyon since 1979, Eric is a jovial, energetic and fun-loving person who wants his wines to make their drinkers happy. He’s always looking to innovate, and, since he loves German wines, he started emulating them in 2005 by vinifying Viognier grapes from Condrieu as if they were Riesling. Ô Pâle is 8 degrees of alcohol, sweet and light, with fresh acidity and delicate aromas.

Also–Texier sources all grapes from interesting vineyard plots and areas–to note, Brezeme–I loved the Brezeme wines, particularly the Roussane. Interesting also–The wines are vinified in their areas of production–that’s a lot of work! On to the notes:

2007 Cotes-du-Rhone Brezeme Blanc (Roussane) I hate Roussane. It tastes like weeds to me and it tends to have this blousy body that I cannot stand. This wine, was lovely though! Nice minerality and acid.

2008 Cotes-du-Rhone Blanc Viognier–lemon/lime, super high acidity. Nice structure!

2006 Cotes-du-Rhone Brezeme Rouge–I told Eric this was my favorite of all of his reds. He said, I definitely have a Northern Rhone palate and a preference for Syrah. Good to know! This wines was nicely balanced, great fruit but with a good structure. I liked the 07, too but I think it needs some time.

The Grenaches were good, but again, I preferred the No. Rhone wines here. The 2006 Cote Rotie Vielles Vignes, poured at t the end, I also liked very much, thank you, sir!

Luneau Papin
2007 Clos des Alles–my notes only say BEAUTIFUL with a smiley face. Sometimes there are no words to describe something, I guess :slight_smile:

2007 L d’Or–earthy! Mmmmmm. Earth.

Pepiere, Muscadet
Where was it! I was ordered by the powers that be (Brad Kane) NOT to miss these Moose-cadets.
Sadly–they were overlooked by moi :frowning: Next time!

And last but not least, Occhipinti
Ah yes, Occhipinti–introduced to me, courtesy of Lou–first the Nero d’Avola and two weeks ago, I got a taste of the Frappato. Frappato! What is this grape? I love it! A native varietal of SE Sicily, I guess. So different than would one might expect from a Sicilian red–it’s light in body, translucent, unlike Nero tends to be and has gorgeous aromatics–dare I say, Pinot Noir-like. It’s elegant, with a strong grapey aroma as well. I love it! And the Nero–it lingered on my tongue for days.

I was quite taken by Arriana, too. She’s so young! http://www.chambersstwines.com/Images/Articles/354_full.jpg And so talented! What a rock star! These wines are made in pretty small quantities I am told, so buy up while you can:

2008 SP68 DOC Rosso Vittoria–Awesome!
2006 IGT Rosso Sicilia Il Frappato–Amazing!
2007 IGT Rosso Sicilia Il Frappato–Ditto!
2006 IGT Rosso Sicilia Siccagno Nero d’Avola–More please!

I missed the Chinato, too! ARGH!

And that is all! Phew! What a day. I was there 4 hours. I am so glad these wines are making it to the left coast finally!

Chin chin Joe and Denyse!
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