Tn: J. Boillot, HOG, Ringland

Had a great dinner with friends tonight comparing two Shiraz:

2004 Domaine Jean Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru
After a Perrieres on Valentines day that was obscenely reductive we went to what we thought were extremes and splash decanted this a little over two hours before serving. Fortunately we did as the wine was now driven by profuse wet stone aromas, interlaced with citrus and ripe/underripe tree fruits. While wood was lightly present, it seemed a little more integrated then the Henri versions of late. A slight creaminess on the mid-palate balanced out the the taut structure which drove the wines long finish. Even with the splash it still took another hour for this wine to really get going. 3 hours splash next time?

1998 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz
A clash of Aussie heavyweights. HOG being my normal preference, this bottle unfortunately started out with some off almost brett/barnyard aromas. You could glean the concentrated wine underneath through it, but it was more akin to peering through a foggy window. We set it aside while we worked on the Ringland and low and behold the off aromas cleared up an hour later. What was left behind was a very nice bottle of HOG. Ripe fruit, to the point of being liqueur like, it was balanced by an abundance of savory herbs and pepper. Tannin was just moderate plus with moderate acidity. A little too ripe of a version of HOG for my taste, but still with time the winner tonight.

1999 Chris Ringland Shiraz
Always amazed for the first hour or two how marvelous and balanced these wines that tout their 15.1% abv on the label can be. Started out magnificent right of the gate, showing up the HOG. Great concentration, but also showing many layers of fruit and tertiary characteristics. A monumental wine that as time went on, began to become too much. The fruit began to overwhelm and become too ripe. The alcohol began to peek out from beneath the shroud it previously had. While in the end probably the better wine, for me tonight this was the sprinter and the HOG the marathoner.

I think we are planning next to have the 1996 Ringland next to a tamer vintage HOG. Should make for another fun and interesting juxtaposition.

Interesting article recently by Lisa Perotti-Brown about HOG, their vineyard blocks, and battles with brett. Given the note and post script, it might be worth a read.

John,

I have read the article but perhaps I’m missing the discussion on brett?

This is the first bottle of HOG that I have come across anything remotely harkening brett. In the last few months alone that has been 5 bottles of 1990 and one 1995. Other representations from the earlier 90’s and even the '80’s and 70’s have yet to reflect that either. I have had the fortunate opportunity to visit both the winery and vineyard with Steve and Pru and found the vineyard, especially the Grandfather section magical, and the winery a wee bit rustic to say the least.

Could you point me in the right direction? TIA

My general preference in the Barossa between '96’s and '98’s is easily he '96’s…Much more classical, better balanced all around, and more long lived in general.