A lower GI virus took me away from wine and most food for the last week or so (it is always instructive to see what I’m like without a nightly dram or two –I think that, should my doctor, at some future moment, tell me that I can drink no more, it would not be as terrible as I might first have thought). But I am back now and to celebrate, I thought I’d open a few bottles of more than passing interest to me.
2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel:
A recent 2001 F.X. Pichler “M” is similar but this is made of sterner stuff; no less concentrated and oily textured, this hasn’t the weight or “out-sizedness” of the Pichler; clear, pure, powerfully floral and remarkably complex but all riding on a backbone of acidity that is sculpted and tends to control the experience. And a nose that is chiseled but still expansive from across the room.
As much as I enjoyed the Pichler, this is the one for me. There is a feeling of timelessness drinking this wine – as though this is what Singerriedel (and nothing else) is, always has been and ever will be. Makes me think good thoughts about those 1999’s I have laid down.
Glorious!
1991 Phelps, Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard:
Much as I would like to say otherwise, this is does not live up to its billing. It’s not bad wine, quite the contrary; everything that should be there is – but nothing is inspired here and there isn’t any signature of the vineyard that, considering where this was born, damn sure should be. A bit tired maybe, showing complexity and a certain finesse but the pedigree here warrants more.
1999 Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles:
Dark, thick, very smooth and with a touch of VA; if that doesn’t sound all that good then it’s my bad because this works; it isn’t typical Gevrey but it shows the marks of its place; it isn’t high in alcohol (13%) but it has the viscosity of a wine half again its size; it is all about black fruit and clean dirt; good aromatics, great intensity (very old vines) and lots of finish. A wine to have with steak, roast or game and evocative of the winter table.
Pretty yummy.
And dinner with friends:
Fresh pea soup - 2007 de Villaine, Aligote:
A good pairing with the wine’s freshness mingling well with the “just picked” flavor of the peas. Aligote is not a favorite of mine but this pairing made the wine seem juicy and less musky than what I usually find.
Roasted chicken with butternut squash risotto - 2007 Chignard, Fleurie Les Moriers:
Exceptional pairing; the chicken was roasted with sage and butter so that it was richer than expected and the wine’s “Fleurie-ness” was in full song. Although showing quite young, the bird helped broaden the palate of the wine and the wine cut the buttery notes of the chicken.
Also opened, a 2007 de Villaine, La Fortune, which was also a good pairing and tended toward the lighter style of pinot noir from this producer – still, perfectly balanced and well-flavored, this is for drinking short term.
Livin’ large, again.
Best, Jim