It has been awhile since we had dinner with Tom so this was a good excuse to catch up. Eight of us got together to drink a few nice bottles and celebrate the holiday season.
Dom Perignon
I rated the 85 Dom Rose in magnum 100pts almost decade ago. This was drinking incredibly well. Champagne always taste better in magnum format.
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1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé - France, Champagne
Fully mature vinous nose displaying decadent slightly dry red fruit, raspberry soda, strawberry tart, brioche, sous bois, light caramel, toffee and limestone. Perfectly integrated palate, beautifully layered subtle warm and round red fruit, very fine but scarce mousse, still showing good energy, freshness and precision, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a seamless long subtle yet decadent red fruit driven finish. This is very Burgundian, like drinking a perfectly mature Chambolle. (99 pts.)
Krug
The 96 was a fully mature example. The 02 was still very youthful and needed time.
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2002 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Rich expressive nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, apple pie, yellow peach, marzipan, brioche, honey, nutmeg and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered concentrated yellow fruit, generous fine mousse, rich and deeply toned, good acidity and mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with almond and honey at the end. With air, it becomes more precise and mineral. Like the previous bottles, this clearly expresses the ripe 02 vintage character. This is really promising. (96 pts.) -
1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
Beautiful golden color, slightly darker than usual. Exquisite nose displaying decadent yellow fruit with a hint of red, baked apple, clementine, apricot, red currant, oyster jus, anise, crème brulee, honey, brioche and limestone. Perfectly integrated harmonious palate, very finely layered subtle yet decadent yellow fruit, very fine but scarce mousse, rich and succulent yet also delicate and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long seamless decadent yellow fruit driven finish with anise and brioche at the end. This displays perfect maturity which is in line with the recent bottles. Although less beads than expected, it doesn’t detract, absolutely gorgeous showing. (99 pts.)
Keller
The 08 was surprisingly rounder than the 10.
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2008 Weingut Keller Abts E®.de Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Rich yet harmonious nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, mango, flint, crème brulee, sweet spices, garrigue, honey and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, rich, round and oily, yet also nicely detailed and precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated yellow pit fruit driven finish. Tom mentions that this bottle seems rounder and less acidic than the previous bottles. My impression is the same based on the bottle drunk in August, 2017. This shows more finesse like Chevalier where the10 is all about the power and intensity, hence like Batard. (96 pts.) -
2010 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Powerful and energetic nose displaying ripe white and yellow fruit, lemon curd, lemon marmalade, dry yellow peach, orange zest, honey, sugar candy, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of rich concentration yellow fruit, rich and powerful yet energetic and nicely detailed, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with orange zest at the end. This seems bigger and more structured than the 08 which is surprising. (94 pts.)
Chave
I enjoyed the flight more than others.
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2004 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Intense golden color which to be expected. Medium expressive nose displaying slightly dry ripe yellow fruit, apricot, lemon curd, beeswax, almond paste and sweet spices. Nicely integrated palate, finely layered slightly dry yellow fruit, oily yet nicely detailed, slightly lacking acidity, medium mineral and a medium to long slightly dry ripe yellow fruit driven finish with beeswax at the end. It shows a bit like Vin Jaune but not as heavy and deeply toned. I like it more than others, i.e. you have to like the mature white hermitage expression. (93 pts.) -
2010 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Expressive mineral driven nose displaying fresh white fruit with a hint of yellow, lemon curd, fresh lemon, a hint of peach, acacia flowers, honey, flint, sap, spicy spices and mineral. Beautifully balanced youthful palate, finely layered concentrated white fruit, dense and oily yet energetic and precise, bright acidity, strong wet stone mineral and a long seamless concentrated white fruit driven finish with a hint of white flowers and beeswax at the end. It displays impressive fruit concentration but the fruit expression is slightly coiled. Really fascinating wine but not for everyone. (96 pts.)
Giacosa
All three showed really well. The 96 Rabaja was drinking incredibly well, the 96 Asili, the most complete, and the 00 Asili was the most round and warmest.
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1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
It has reached the youthful peak. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying subtle delicious red fruit, strawberry and cherry, rose, iron and rust, caramel, balsamico, cinnamon and fine limestone dust. Perfectly integrated palate, shy sweet red fruit, silky and elegant, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a medium to long subtle sweet red fruit driven finish with a hint of rust and rose at the end. Although it lacks concentration and complexity of the Asili, this is a classic Giacosa that is drinking beautifully. (95 pts.) -
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Expressive complex nose displaying intense black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of dry cherry, licorice, caramel, smoked meat, roasted nuts, iron, tar, sap, sweet spices and mineral. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of intense concentrated black fruit, dense, rich and deeply toned yet beautifully detailed and precise, bright acidity, strong iron mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish with iron and cinnamon at the end. The most concentrated and intense wine of the flight by far. Although it is drinking beautifully, it can easily improve for another two decades of more. (97 pts.) -
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Beautifully mature complex nose displaying concentrated sweet red fruit, strawberry, cherry compote, a hint of dry cherry, cola, fruitcake, anise, sweet spices and iron. Fully integrated palate, very finely layered sweet red fruit, warm and round, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a seamless long sweet red fruit driven finish with iron and sweet spices at the end. This is drinking beautifully but no need to hurry. (95 pts.)
Bordeaux
This flight reminded me how great Bordeaux can be.
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1995 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
The 95 HB is a fascinating wine that is very ripe and concentrated yet also slightly green. Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense black fruits, creme de cassis, blackberry jelly, caramel, lactic, ash and crushed rose petal mix, strong lead pencil, tobacco, sweet spices and limestone dust mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense youthful black fruit, unctuous and energetic, good acidity, strong limestone mineral, still noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with limestone dust and rose at the end. This remains incredibly youthful and still needs time. Although it lacks the sensuality and completeness of the 98, it is a classic Haut Brion that is clearly expressing the concentrated, ripe and structured 95 vintage typicity. (95 pts.) -
1998 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Incredibly complex and sensual nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit, crème de cassis, crushed blackberry, licorice, caramel, incense, rose, lead pencil, tobacco, leather, black truffle and limestone. Perfectly harmonious sensual palate, layers upon layers of pure concentrated black fruit, silky and weightless, exceptional detail and precision, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated fine tannins and a long seamless concentrated black fruit driven finish with rose and tobacco at the end. Drinking perfectly but can easily improve for a couple more decades. Really the best value HB that is always so darn consistent. (99 pts.) -
1982 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The wine that Bob initially rated 100 pts and subsequently downgraded to 92 pts. I have never had a bottle that was close to perfect….until now. Absolutely gorgeous complex nose that reminds me the 61 Palmer, perfectly ripe subtle red fruit, strawberry, raspberry jam, sous bois, caramel, black truffle, cedar, leather and mineral. Perfectly integrated palate, finely layered subtle red fruit, elegant, warm and round but also silky and beautifully detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fully integrated tannins and a seamless long subtle sweet red fruit driven finish with leather and cedar at the end. This seems almost decade or two older than the 82 FGs which is not necessarily a bad thing. Absolute pleasure. (98 pts.)
Monfortino
Although expressive, both were so young.
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1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Incredibly youthful nose displaying intense ripe black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, fruitcake, licorice, strong iron, tar, rose, baking spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe concentrated black fruit, unctuous and warm yet silky and harmonious, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, still noticeable but very fine tannins and a long intense ripe black fruit driven finish. Tom mentions more air is needed and I agree. This remains incredibly youthful. (97 pts.) -
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
En magnum. Surprisingly expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit, black cherry, blackberry, licorice, dark caramel, balsamico, lavender, tar, baking spices and earth. The palate to die for, layers upon layers of intense pure black fruit, silky and sensual, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a seamless long black fruit driven finish with baking spices and licorice at the end. Despite being incredibly youthful, this is open for business. (99 pts.)
Rieussec
This shed baby fat, showing improved detail.
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2009 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Expressive nose displaying tropical yellow fruit, pineapple, mango, papaya, strong botrytis, ginger and spicy spices. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of ripe yellow fruit, unctuous and oily without being heavy, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long opulent yellow fruit driven finish. This is a lot more precise than five years ago. There is absolutely no demand for Sauternes and represent the best value along with Port. (95 pts.)
As usual, a great time was had by all.
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