TN: Holiday Burgundy Lunch


Magnificent day of exquisite food and wine with dear friends.

  • 1990 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses - France, Champagne
    This is about as close to perfection as a Champagne can be. Ripe fruit, crisp minerality, shimmering color, and a looooong finish.

  • 2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Served blind. Youngish but quite giving, so fresh and the flavor keeps building. Got more refined and nuanced with time in the glass. This is great now, but will probably become one of the all time greats in with more bottle age. There’s always the worry of premox so I’d rather err on the side of caution, but if a bottle of this can last another decade it will probably be unreal.
  • 1993 Domaine Michel Niellon Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Served blind. The aroma somewhat muted here, but the texture is incredible. So dense, an almost cheese like nuance, the mouthfeel is quite incredible. With air (and after warming up, it was served too cold), the aroma became a bit more expressive but never matched up to the fireworks of the first white in the flight (14 Ramonet Chevalier).
  • 2004 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Served blind. Aroma was disappointing, some thought it to be TCA but I didn’t get that. It smelled like there was a button mushroom note marring the otherwise expressive fruit. High acid, this has as a lot of structure, and it improved with time but never quite rose to the level of the stiff competition.

  • 1986 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Sadly oxidized. Dark color, fruit totally faded. NR (flawed)
  • 1999 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Served blind, this was a stunner from the get-go. It showed a sense of completeness that made it the white wine of the day. Beguiling aromas, layers of flavor, huge finish… and the sense this could continue to go for years. A stellar performance!

  • 1988 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
    A tale of two bottles… Blind tasting and two friends showed up with a bottle of this same wine. It was a fascinating comparison, as the two bottles showed so differently. Led to a lot of great discussion.

Bottle 1: Earthy in a deep and mysterious way, Middle Earth? Rose petals blossom and it’s profound and delicious. But if there’s any knock here it’s that the first sips were the best, and it was peaking then gradually fading.

Bottle 2: Clean, pure, pristine. Absolutely lovely example where the shimmering fruit couldn’t be any better. Nobody guessed this to be the same wine as bottle 1, it lacked the earthy elements and was more refined, more lively, growing in the glass rather than fading.

  • 2000 Domaine Leroy Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Served blind, and wow was the greatness of this wine evident from the first sniff. The most pure aroma, this is flat out thrilling tasters around the table getting giddy. The Vosne spice was textbook, everything I love about Vosne-Romanee in one perfect glass. A thrilling, majestic, brilliant wine. This was my wine of the day amongst incredibly stiff competition, it had a touch of magic that I woke up thinking about the next day.
  • 2000 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Youngest tasting wine of the flight, darkest color. Oh the purity! Such a clean and deep wine, incredible fruit, and really exotic aromatics. Amazing today and easily will improve for 2 decades plus.

Served blind, and the 00 Leroy RSV next to it was slightly better than this today (I don’t rate with points but those that do were giving 1 point advantage to Leroy). In another decade I’d expect the RSV to be plateauing or fading as this is gaining complexity. A great wine.

  • 1985 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Served blind, I actually thought this was younger than the wines in the previous flight but was quite a bit older than 2, and a bit older than 1. Absolutely impressive, a wine I could spend all day with. This was quite clean, expressing rose petal aromas and layers of fruit. Nobody guessed the wine incidentally, which was interesting, but we all were smitten by it.
  • 1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
    Reticent at first, then after about 20 minutes in the glass the sweet majesty unfolded. A complex spicebox with pure fruit and terrific delineation. A top class reference standard Burgundy. Served blind.
  • 1966 Faiveley Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
    Served blind, this had some funk to it. The age was evident, and in retrospect I think it was a mistake to pop and pour, this likely should have been slow oxidized for hours beforehand. Shocking upon the reveal, this should have been a top contender even amongst today’s stiff competition but it wasn’t. It was a very good wine, just lacking the purity and exuberance of some of the other wines, and marred by a bit of that funk that never entirely dissipated.

  • 1966 Maison Leroy Corton - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    Served blind. The tasting note I jotted down was too salacious to publish here. Suffice it to say this has a compelling combination of juicy fruit, sous bois, and rose petals. A fantastic wine.
  • 1991 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Served blind. I don’t recall ever having smelled so much cinnamon on the nose of a red Burgundy before. Just a crazy amount of cinnamon. This seemed younger than a '91, dark color with clean and very rich fruit. Quite excellent, and clearly room for more development.

  • 1990 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
    Served at the end of a very long day of exquisite Burgundy, so this might not have gotten the full attention it deserved. I found it quite enjoyable, but to me today the Clos de Goisses was a step up.
  • 2006 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
    Good but quite young. To be fair this was lost in the shuffle after a long day of drinking superb Burgundy.
  • 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Good stuff, ripe fruit not overly tropical as some '13’s can be. Balanced and tasty, guessing this is still not showing all that it has. Will be interesting to revisit in a few years.
  • 1990 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
    Lot of discussion around the table about VA. In my experience a lot of Leroy Beaux Monts from the 90’s have some VA. I’ve not been bothered by it generally, but VA sensitive people will want to avoid this. This particular bottle had more VA than I would have preferred, it overwhelmed the other aromas. But the flavor was still there, the rose petals in all their glory.

Great wines and notes, thanks Alex.

Great line up, thanks for the notes

Waking up thinking about a wine, wow, that sounds like an amazing bottle. Surrounded by other epic bottles. What an amazing lunch. And excellent notes, thank you.

Well done, says me with more than a little jealousy.

you had so many great wines that the bad Ramonets don’t matter but they have both been great bottles in the past, 86 and 04. That 88 Rousseau was once called by Coates the greatest Chambertin he had ever tasted, but that was long ago. Clos des Goisses too rarely is mentioned as a great champagne. Great tasting, overwhelming.

Wow. A dream.

Leflaive’s ‘99s are magic in a bottle.

Great line-up Alex.

Our '72 Faiveley Moose on Friday was a little funky on first sniff. After a 6 hour Audouze it was simply magnificent.

Beyond awesome. 2000 Leroy RSV. Sounded like really something. A wine I will not likely encounter.

That treatment probably would have served the '66 well.

Next time we do something like this, we’re going to see if the restaurant can stand the wines up in the cellar for a week beforehand and help with slow oxidation.

It was spectacular, almost overwhelming. The downside to tasting something this special is that everything in my cellar is a major let down by comparison. Time to take a little break and let the expectations reset.