TN: Epic Riesling Dinner Notes, Hearth NYC (30+ wines, 90's to '11)

WINE TALK
1

Pretty sure I still reek of wine and roasted pork skin. Last Thursday was one of Hearth NYC’s enormous Riesling extravaganzas. Hundreds of bottles, 36 different wines and exceptionally well-curated categories (Loosen Orgy, 2001: A Dry Odyssey) to choose from. Special thanks to Stuart Pigott for donating all of the vino, too. My thoughts here:

1990 Karlsmühle Lorenzhöfer Riesling Auslese “Long Gold Cap”: Acidity off the roof, impeccably tempered with an aggressive minerality and honeyed, ebullient flavor. Great balance. (94)

1990 Müller-Catoir Rieslaner Beerenauslese: Creamy, peachy, followed by some softer pear notes. Delicious and still going strong. (90)

1990 Dr. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Musky and cuminy on the nose with an intensely slatey edge. Both delicate and powerful, and the longest finish of the 1990’s. (92)

1990 Gunderloch Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Briskly saline with apples on the forefront of the nose and palate. Thick peach and apricot flavors and a lively texture. (94)

1993 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Effervescent and almost somberly dry- unusual for its class. Sweet apples and a dense, figgy flavor. Definitely one of the best of its group. (93)

1994 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Similarly brisk dryness as the '93 but with a bolder, snappier spice to it. Cumin, cinnamon, brown sugar, and a little kick of violet. A very special wine. (95)

1995 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese: And I quote from my notes, “holy shit!!!” Most acidic 90’s Loosen so far, downright zippy with a fuckton of candied lemon rind, slate, river rock, salinity, and varietal character. (96)

1998 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese: Smooth, acidic, creamy apples and mint, orange oils and spices. (92)

1999 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese: Botrytis all over the nose, with fresh honeydew and brown sugar. Syrupy and sticky sweet. (91)

2001 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Orange peel and an intense hint of strawberries and warm grass. Abundant with creamy, thick textures and a little minerality. Long, herbaceous finish. (95, WOTN)

2002 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Pleasant, but paled in perspective to the 01, reasonably speaking. Apples and crisp pear with a little juicy lychee notes and simple syrup. (92)

2003 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese “Gold Cap”: Effervescent and bubbly, fresh honey and cane sugar. A little grassiness and verdant, bouncy flavors on the finish. (92)

2001 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese: Brisk mineral tang like a sharp intake of mountain air, slate, loam, and what I apparently wrote down as “electric pear.” Sounds about right. Intensely saline and creamy, with low RS. (94)

2001 Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling trocken: Infiltrates the senses with savory, smoky flavors and a slowly developing white peach. (93)

2001 Heyl zu Herrnsheim Niersteiner Brudersberg Riesling Spätlese: Delicately floral, with hyacinth, lily, and green apple. (92)

2001 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese trocken: Petrol, orange, lemon, and spice. Very balanced though veering on botrytis. Still delightful. (93)

2008 Heymann-Löwenstein “Schieferterrassen” Riesling: Bitter lemon peel and orange juice. Tempered sweetness and a delightfully sweet, playful nose. (93)

2003 Heymann-Löwenstein “Schieferterrassen” Riesling: Mild and peachy, uncomplicated and easy to enjoy. (90)

2005 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen “R” Riesling: An acidity you could get lost in. Complex flavors of rich rhubarb, syrup, and brown sugar. Definitely one of the best of the HLs tried. (94)

2001 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen “R” Riesling: Cool river rock and mineral flavors with an intensely lingering finish of grapefruit and mint. (93)

1999 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen “R” Riesling: Crisp, yeasty, acidic, and fruity, with a little malty fizz on the finish. Kerosene and ripe peach abound in this one. (91)

2011 Karlsmühle “Schlank im Schrank” Riesling trocken: Peaty, dry, lush. Quirkier set of flavors, but delicious ones. Wine geek wine. (92)

2005 Martin Tesch “Five Miles Out” Riesling trocken: Intense clarity on this one- razor sharp precision in the flavors. Malty, fresh, and crisp notes of sour apple and cranberry. (91)

2011 Martin Tesch “Unplugged” Riesling trocken: Huge slate and a lingering smokiness. The scotch of Rieslings. Hardcore indeed. (93)

Let me know what you think of these and if you’ve tried any. I’d also be curious to get the thoughts of anyone else who was there. Definitely one of the best tastings I’ve been to in a while!

Jess

2

Thanks for fine notes on a nice set of wines. I loved the Donnhoff NH Spat on release, but only have one btl left. Your note makes it sound quite appealing.

3

No problem- haha, it was plenty of fun compiling them. The Donnhoff Spat is still going very strong. Considering getting a few myself- it’s definitely worth the price now!

4

wow, great notes, great mix of wines. i love the way the 2001 rieslings are drinking right now. glad to see heymann getting some love. such good stuff, although i’ve never had any from the 90s. they’re so good young i can’t seem to hold onto them. cheers!

5

I’ll be posting photos, soon! Isaac, the Heymanns were incredible- enormous magnums of the "R"s, too. Gotta love 'em!

6

Just last night I was telling my dinner companions about serving this exact wine to Berenice Lurton, who had never drunk a German auslese. She sat at my table with a look of amazement, saying over and over “so balanced, so balanced.” I love that wine, but unfortunately am out of it (the 2002 is similarly great, btw).

7

I have never had an “R” from Heymann I haven’t loved from.

8

I really like the 2010 Martin Tesch “Unplugged” Riesling … it was definitely “hardcore.”

9

sad that i missed this event…

10

Will look into the 2002- and oh, god, what a beautiful example to cut one’s teeth on!

Also, for all interested, here are some photos (and gratuitous pig roast shots) of the event. We went to the Wines of Germany '11 futures tasting earlier that day as well, so I’ll have that report up soon! :slight_smile: http://wp.me/p2mBmn-4T

11

wait, there were MORE rieslings tasted on this day? on my god that is awesome/insane!

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About thirty more- at least from my notes. Guessing there were a couple hundred at the WoG tasting…it was like being back at a college party again, haha. :stuck_out_tongue:

13

This sounds tasty! [wow.gif]

1995 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese: And I quote from my notes, “holy shit!!!” Most acidic 90’s Loosen so far, downright zippy with a fuckton of candied lemon rind, slate, river rock, salinity, and varietal character. (96)

14

Can any of you give me your opinion of the food at Hearth? My wife and I will be in NY for a long weekend in a couple of weeks, as a chef friend of ours is doing the James Beard dinner on Friday, October 5. I thought Hearth would be a good place to go on that Saturday and have a reservation, but thought I would check with you for validation of the choice. Thanks!

15

Had very good meal there last month.
Great wine list as you can see

16

hearth is a good choice. We’ve always enjoyed the fish dishes over at Hearth. Always fresh and well prepared. Ingredients are always top notch and carefully chosen. Even their roast chicken is worth ordering.
If the gnocci side dish is available (usually available during fall/winter), ask and share. it’s one of the better ones, simply done, that I’ve had. The Hen of the Woods side dish is also a good side dish.

17

Thanks Rob and Ramon. I’m looking forward to going to Hearth.

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Jess - great notes and thanks for posting them all, as well as the pics. I was at this event with a friend and agreed that it was just an amazing tasting. As you indicated, there really was not a clunker in the bunch. I particularly enjoyed the '95 Loosen Auslese as well, and was just impressed with the wines overall. I’ve tasted a fair amount of rieslings, but rarely at the goldkapsel level, so this was a real treat.

It was also a nice cap to the evening to win the raffle and speak with Stuart about the wines.

Hope to see you at the next event and thanks again for the great notes…I misplaced mine!

19

John - I think that Hearth is quite underrated and would completely recommend it. Food is excellent, and if you can get a seat at the pass, it’s a great experience. Plus, Terroir is just a few doors down for a before dinner drink!

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What is “the pass” Mike? I hope that’s not a dumb question!

We’ll check out Terroir while we’re there.