New Year ’s Eve wines
2011 Dutton-Goldfield Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Rued Vineyard – I should preface my notes on this wine by saying that I am not a fan of the US/Australian version of chard – they often lack the ‘tension’ that a bit more acidic balance gives them, and often seem over oaked and fruited, while collapsing at the end for lack of balance. While this wine has received many ‘attaboys’ by tasters more tolerant of the style, I found it to be oaky and rich on palate, but a bit one note and unsatisfying. Finished softly and a bit short.
2002 Albert Mann Tokay Pinot Gris Grand Cru Furstentum – I had hauled this one along to accompany a cross between a tarte l’oignon and a flammekueche, this one made with a short crust and bacon included along with crème fraiche and gruyere, my take on André Soltner’s dish (Lutece, New York). Now a light amber colour, the wine has a lychee apricot nose, and generated some orange and spice notes with time. While I had found this to be a tad sweet a decade ago, it seems to have snapped into focus in middle to old age (really needs drinking in the near term) and I enjoyed it more than previous bottles. Perfect with the tarte.
2002 Domaine Billard-Gonnet Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas –fairly pale and showing decent fruit in the nose, but on palate, the fruit levels were low and the acid high and we decided it was an off bottle.
2003 Jean-Claude Boisset Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques – had great hopes for this one, but unfortunately not fulfilled on tasting. Corked. Hopefully more a comment on how 2016 had been than how 2017 would be!
2001 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia – this Rioja was a back up pulled straight from the cellar and it showed well. Nose of cherry and smoky spice, good fruit levels, smooth soft tannins and good length.
At midnight:
1990 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé – a better bottle than one I’d opened earlier in the week. Golden colour, lots of very small bubbles but not fizzy like a younger wine, and a bready toasty nose with marmalade notes. Perfectly balanced and medium long clean finish.