DRINKING WHITE BURGUNDIES AND ITALIANS AT BLUEGRASS - Bluegrass restaurant, Baltimore (3/23/2012)
Tom had a hall pass and kindly invited a few of us and generously opened a nice group of all Piedmont wines except a Chianti. Six of us met and bluegrass in Baltimore, a casual dining spot but the dishes were perfectly executed and showed superbly. The raw Kumamoto Oysters were incredibly flavorful and the charcuterie plate to die for, the best I had in awhile. The chef came out at the end of the night, a really young fellow, easy going but extremely passionate about his food.
I was so happy that none of the whites were premoxed, including the 05 Jadot Les Demoiselle, and none corked. The wine serving order was perfect, nicely building up to a Crescendo.
Whites
As noted earlier, no premox! Perhaps time to heavily buy the white burgs?
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2007 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
This is a mineral and acidity driven Les Clos. Ian mentioned that this was very tight about a year ago. Wet stone, honey, lanoline and noticeable granny smith. Lean and precise, it would go extremely well with a shell fish dish. Not for those who love ample fruit expression. (91 pts.) -
2008 Patrick Piuze Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Another very mineraity driven wine without much fruits. Saline, seashell and lemon. It is interesting that the fruit seems under-ripe yet finishes with a hint of creme brulee which clips the finish. Nothing remarkable but enjoyable nevertheless. (88 pts.) -
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
It is showing beautifully at the moment. Beautiful white fruit expression, pear dominated with a hint of apple and lemon at this stage, honey, flint, chalk and wet stone. Not as acidic as I imagined but strong mineral presence keep the wine very precise. An exceptional showing. (93 pts.) -
2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
I am not a big fan of the 09 Chblis as I prefer piercing acidity in my white Burgundies. Noticeably sweeter and fatter nose, fat and rich palate. Lemon oil perhaps. (90 pts.) -
2005 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
I rated this wine 99 pts and correctly identified as a chevy at the GJE-style white Burgundy vs US chardonnay held in 2008. Recently purchased from the Zachys La Paulee auction. The issue of premox worried me but the color looked great. Rich chevalier fruits, excellent mineral expression, honey, lemon oil, and a hint of limestone. Unctuous palate and rich fruits. It started a bit tight but it really blossomed with time showing the best at the end of the night. It reminds me the 89 version with very ripe rich fruits. Started as 95 pointer improving to 97. (97 pts.)
A lone Clos Vougeot
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2007 Thibault Liger-Belair Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
This is so deliciously ready. Soft, warm and delicate strawberry and raspberry, earth and starting show sous bois. This soft medium concentration wine is at its early pick. Perhaps the fruit expression is not terribly complex but it is drinking extremely well. (92 pts.)
A chianti
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1985 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
Tom mentioned this was not as fresh as the others he had This shows a hint of oxidation which clips the finish abruptly. I believe the wine got fresher with time. Ripe, raisin, leather and strong cigarette note. (89 pts.)
A pair of 1990 Barolis
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1990 Prunotto Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Bright red fruits, cherries, cedar, wet tobacco and tar. The palate is softe and subtle. Enjoyable. (91 pts.) -
1990 Parusso Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This is served next to the 90 Prunotto Cannubi and it showed better. The nose is similar to the 90 Monfortino. Expressive nose displays sweet cherry fruits, iron, beef cocoa, blood, dry leather, decaying leaves and balsamico. The palate is silky and displays sweet fruit, bright acidity and still very noticeable tannins. It perhaps is not as sweet and as deep as the monfortino but still is an exceptional wine. (94 pts.)
Big boys!
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1989 Gaja Barolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This is the first Piedmont producer that I learned and followed. His wines have very recognizable flavor profile, always sweet, opulent, warm, expressive, generous yet incredibly structured. It is hard not to like Gaja for me yet I always have a negative bias without a good reason.
The nose is sensual and luxurious, clean warm red fruits, crushed cherries, cedar, licorice, sap and sweet spices. The palate displays silky texture, bright acidity and ends with mouth puckering tannins. This is a big scale Barolo that is drinking beautifully yet needs to resolve the tannins. The first nose is Wow and initially prefer this to the 90 Monfortino but the Monfortino opened up. (97 pts.) -
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Henry mentioned how tight some of the 01 Giacosas are yet this bottle is an exception. Fresh black cherries, Kirschwasser, rose, anise, earth, truffle, balsamico and fresh cigarette. Excellent concentration and acidity with strong presence of tannins. This expressive bottle is drinking beautifully with noticeable secondary nuances. Although I have not tasted side by side with the 96 version, this reminds me of that wine. (95 pts.) -
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The nose is a big tight, as Tom mentioned, a lot of iron as well as beef blood, baked fruit cakes, dry cherries and raw shitake. The palate displays sweet fruits, bright acidity, silky texture with nicely integrated tannins. This is a very fresh example of the 90 Monfortino. As the night wore on, it really opens up, the nose getting bigger and showing more; strong and ample note of truffle, balsamico, rose, iron and tar and bitter chocolate. The palate gained weight. It started as a 96 pointer but the last drop, 99 points and there was very little influence of alcohol as I had to drive back to DC. (98 pts.)
It was a great evening with just the right amount of great wines. I must thank Tom as usual. I have the 96 Salon and the 04 Monfortino with your name on!
P.S. Ian joined us. I had the pleasures of sharing wines with Phil from Bassins and Ian from the wine source back to back, both passionate and knowledgeable young retailers. It doesn’t hurt that they both are friendly and humble.
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