TN: Donelan Family Wines with Joe Donelan

WINE TALK
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DONELAN FAMILY WINES WITH JOE DONELAN - Yono’s Restaurant, Albany, NY (5/29/2014)

A couple members of my Albany group have been buying Joe Donelan’s wines since he separated from Pax. I was cutting back on my wine buying, and it felt a little like when a married couple you like gets a divorce and it is easier to avoid them both. Anyway, the guys in my group arranged with Joe to come up to our area and taste us on his recent releases. Yono’s was chosen as the venue and it turned out to be a great choice for these generally subtle and complex wines.

The Chardonnay was opened at 4:30 and the last 2 Syrahs (Obsidian & Richards) were decanted at that time and served from the decanters. The rest of the wines were opened at 6:15. All the wines were served at room temperature. Joe generously opened 3 bottles of each wine. Dinner began around 7:30 and ended around 10pm.

Before the first course, we were served an Amuse Bouche of R&G Cheesemakers chèvre, crispy speck, lemon zest, parsley, as well as a Stuffed Zucchini Flower. Dominick added the latter just because they came in fresh today. R&G Cheesemakers are local in Cohoes, NY.

For more details and pictures:
http://www.finewinegeek.com/tn/2014-05-29_WCC_Donelan_Yonos/

Flight 1: Whites
Hand Rolled Peekytoe Crab Rangoon with Minted Yuzu Old Chatham Yogurt, Cucumber, and Kaffir Lime Gremolata.

  • 2012 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie - USA, California, Sonoma County
    [Opened at 4:30 and served at room temperature around 7:30.] Lovely fragrance of fresh flowers and lemon custard. Vivid in the mouth. Tart and appealing. Goes perfectly with the Crab Rangoon. More in the vein of a crisp Chablis than most California Chardonnays. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Donelan Venus - USA, California, Sonoma County
    [2.5% Viognier; opened at 6:15 and served at room temperature around 7:30.] Gorgeous nose of tangerine custard and some subtle spices. Clean, thick, fresh, with a long flavorful clean finish. Again, the Crab Rangoon is a great match. (93 pts.)

Flight 2: Pinot Noir
Pan Seared Maple Leaf Farm’s Duck Breast with Red Wine, Shallot & Cherry Reduction, Cauliflower Cous Cous, and Pea Tendrils.

  • 2012 Donelan Pinot Noir Two Brothers - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    [Opened at 6:15 and served around 8:15.] Muted sweet cherry nose. Sweet strawberry candy in the mouth. Elegant but simple at this stage. (88 pts.)

Flight 3: Syrah 1
Roasted Pennsylvania Pork Tenderloin with Thyme Jus, Potato Puree, and Red Ribbon Sorrel.

  • 2011 Donelan Syrah Cuvée Christine - USA, California, Sonoma County
    [Opened at 6:15 and served around 8:45.] Big gummy nose. Sweet fruit. Not that different from the Pinot to me. A little more richness and flavor. At least one person told me this was his red wine of the night. Different strokes . . . (89 pts.)
  • 2011 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    [Opened at 6:15 and served around 8:45.] Muted nose at this stage. Sweet, penetrating, very long finish. Stunning in it’s length and complexity. Medium weight, but rich in flavor of dark fruits and spice. Excellent. (95 pts.)

Flight 4: Syrah 2
Char Grilled Black Angus Beef with Roasted Chef’s Garden Beets and Sauce Bordelaise.

  • 2011 Donelan Syrah Obsidian Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
    [Decanted at 4:30 and served from the decanter at around 9:15.] Complex nose of black fruit and stones. Thick rich harmonious. Serious stuff. A marvelous wine that comes in waves and has a bright future. 94-96 points. (95 pts.)
  • 2011 Donelan Syrah Richards Family Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    [Decanted at 4:30 and served from the decanter at around 9:15.] Distinctive lavender nose is almost overpoweringly floral like no Syrah I’ve ever had. I hope that will soften a bit with time since it almost too much of a good thing. In the mouth, the wine is simply stunning. It is rich and powerful and at the same time light on its feet and graceful. Terrific length, this is an amazing and unique wine. (97 pts.)

This was a great evening of wine, food, and fun. The Rhone varietal wines from Donelan Family Wines really are in the top echelon of European-influenced California wines.

Posted from CellarTracker

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Thanks for the notes Ken! I’ve had the pleasure of drinking on several occasions with Tyler Thomas, the winemaker that took over after Pax (and made all the wines in your notes) and Joe Nielsen who was the assistant winemaker, taking over after Tyler left for greener pastures. They both have impeccable palates and always seem to be experimenting with an endless number of blending samples.

I’ve never quite understood why these wines never get the same love as Pax. The scores have been higher if you’re into that. For me, they are a much more balanced than what was previously sold in stupidly shaped bottles.

Perhaps the fact that Pax just has awesomer hair really does matter? [worship.gif]

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Nice notes; thanks for the writeup Ken.

I always liked these wines and really enjoyed tasting with Tyler. As far as why Donelan doesn’t get much love here, I have several theories on that subject, but typing them here would likely cause my phone to ring, and I really don’t have time today for a debate.

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I’ve been a fan of Donelan wines and remain on their mailing list. They had a few consecutive price increases that, when combined with tax and rather expensive shipping put their wines largely out the sweetspot for me. I’ve managed to pick up some of their wine at retail (special request) to help though. I always enjoyed the Walker Vine Hill and Kobler. The Obsidian was nice the one time I tried it (at their facility with Trip and Tyler) and am glad to have an Obsidian and Richards hidden away.

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Hey WBs, i’m newer to the forum and will try to do my best to post regularly and answer any potential questions/concerns you might have…as well as attempt to set the record straight on rumor mill items.

First up; in regards to Pat’s post…when we rebranded to DONELAN 5 years ago we brought all pricing DOWN across the board 10-20%, in year one we readjusted the price on the Ricahrds ('07 - 100pts Parker) and the Obsidian. Since then (read 4 yrs) we have NOT raised our prices until last week’s release. A 4 year price hold is hard to do in today’s wine business.

Thank you

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Nothing but love for you Larry P.

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Thanks for the correction.

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Thanks Cushing. I wish you guys nothing but the best! [cheers.gif] …and I will likely check out the 2012 Kobler when it’s released.