Good evening all,
Fantastic evening at Fabi and Rosi with one of the most engaging winemakers I have ever had the privilege to meet along with all of the wonderful people who see Prum on its way from Germany to the retail shelves of Austin, Texas. Food quite excellent too- locals and anyone visiting Austin are strongly advised to give them a try. BYO allowed and great things happening in this kitchen. Perfect evening all around.
And now the wines in order of serving,
2001 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
young pale yellow color, bright peach on the nose, hints of petrol, exceptionally elegant, white flowers, on the palate very light at the moment- ethereal, closed down, spiraling deft acidity on the tail end, great promise here but resting quietly at present, I am saying very little because there was little to see- but all of the suggestions of greatness are clearly there and just peeking out here and there at present.
(**)+, 2015+
2010 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese from magnum
pale champagne color, striking nose of citrus and peaches, quite floral as well- surprisingly so at such a young age, on the palate a wine of great scale elegantly clad in a silken robe, finessed, but with a strong building trail of acid on the finish of blazing white gravel and stone, a baby, extraordinary, stony, lucious, with air quickly becomes tight and a little wild on the back, mango notes emerge, 2 hours later- more open on the nose, pure peach and honeysuckle, on the palate bright and nimble, a dancer of great muscular power performing with sublime grace. I have long been a fan of Prum but have not taken the time to really understand them- blame it on my laziness over the more overt, yet also great, pleasures of the Nahe. Tonight was my watershed moment with Prum- not just because I took the time, but also because this is a truly extraordinary vintage for this wine. And as much reward as will come with cellar time, I will unashamedly open this a time or two again in the near future.
(*****), 2025++
2007 JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese
light yellow color, dark gravel on the nose, earthy petrol, on the palate closed, quite a lot of edgy stony notes, ripe blood oranges peeping out a bit, punchy notes, sleek and deceptively approachable but I would sock this away another 10 years or so, the acid here is also quite excellent but very much wrapped up in the depth of the fruit and so not as obviously on display as was the case with the 2001 and 2010 Prums tasted this evening, I think this was at a bit of an awkward phase- in one sense it was very fun and tasty, but there is a whole lot more to come here and it is not quite fully sorted out to the finest details.
(****)+, 2018+
2007 JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsul
light champagne color, intense nose of petrol and brioche, textured, on the palate decadent thick honey toward the back, hints of citrus showing underneath but still very much in hiding, this was the most approachable of the young wines tonight- but also the most simple in presentation carried by that massive succulent fruit and nowhere near showing all the layering and nuance that will come with time, after tonight I am tempted to not touch a single 2007 from anyone in Germany for at least 5 more years.
(*****), 2022++
1988 JJ Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsul
bright gold color, soaring peach on the nose, subtle, on the palate penetrating; layers and layers of honey, mango and peach wash softly over the palate, creamy white minerals, a very relaxed and subdued wine at first, creme brulee note with time, some blood orange, piercing yet supremely elegant, still a bit firm on the end which keeps everything balanced and in check, nothing here is overt- everything marries together beautifully and only after you just relax and let the wine guide you can you really begin to explore all the little nooks and crannies, earth notes, apricots, continued to build slowly and gently until the bottle was gone. Lovely, lovely wine.
****+, ready to drink and should hold nicely a few more years
I feel a bit like this is my official return to the wine game after yet another hiatus. I could not have asked for a greater welcome.