TN: Dinner at Siggy's (Rayas, Lafon, Cheval Blanc, Felix)

DINNER AT SIGGY’S - (6/3/2010)

Siggy arranged a spur-of-the-moment dinner and tasting last night that proved to be very fun. Chris Larson made a Costco run – meaning he showed up with four pounds of cheese (St. Andre, Gruyere, and others) and three very large rib-eyes. Steve added wok-seared green beans, sauted shitakes (which were doused with some of the Rayas) and potato cakes made with garlic chive (Ad Hoc style!).

Whites/Roses
Served with cheese and crackers. The Lafon was the best of these, but didn’t quite deliver the heights I expected.

  • 2007 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
    Siggy had this open while he completed mise en place. The color is a nice pale pink. Not showing much on the nose, but the taste is fresh and clean with great balance, nice weight and an excellent finish. Proved to be a nice way to start the night. (88 pts.)
  • 2000 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Popped and poured. Perfect, clear yellow color. The nose had a slight oxidative note as if just emerging from its closed phase, but also had lovely aromas of orchard fruit (say pears and apricots), flowers and honey/caramel. Really nice on the palate with good fruit intensity, some minerality, and great balance. Finishes nicely. There’s no doubt this is a quirky wine that is not for everyone. This wine begged to be paired by the right food; I can’t wait to see if I can find an inspired pairing for my remaining bottles. (88 pts.)
  • 2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Popped and poured. Great clear yellow color. Nice aromas on the nose featuring fruit, lemon and mineral. Not quite as effusive as I have come to expect. Beautiful on the palate with intense flavors, but surprisingly heavy. Somewhat compact. Great finish, with a long, lingering finish. Drinking fine, but seems to be a bit shut down relative to my previous experiences. (92 pts.)

Reds with Dinner
The Clos Vougeot was a great disappointment, but the Cheval Blanc helped overcome our loss.

  • 2002 Louis Latour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
    Seemed prematurely advanced on opening, but ultimately was determined to be corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2004 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    “Audouzed” for ~10 minutes (OK, pop and pour…). The nose is still showing young and primary with dark fruit and oak dominating elements of coffee and tobacco. Pretty enough. On the palate this is open and soft with very little structure apparant from the attack through mid-palate. Great fruit intensity and expansiveness but showing lots of caramel/oak with some endearing minerality. Tannins have softened a bit over the last few years. Drinking well enough now, but it will be interesting to taste this again in the distant future and see if it develops more character/interest. (92 pts.)
  • 2001 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Felix - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Popped and poured. The nose is showing a healthy dose of brett. Beyond this there is nice red fruit and dried herbs. On the palate this has a nice weight and texture. Flavors are nice enough, but fall a little flat with respect to intensity. This is my first time with the '01 and I had high expectations based on a great visit to the domaine in 2006 and while very good this didn’t quite deliver to my expectations. (91 pts.)

After dinner we moved to the family room to catch the Twins game (which started at 9:00 local time). Thanks Siggy – it was another great night.

Great notes Dave -

I’ve never been a fan of Rayas Blanc - Over they years I’ve either had premox bottles or a wine that is so shut down it tastes like it needs 30 years to open up - I don’t know if you want to sit on those remaining bottles too much longer - I’ve always loved wines like that with fresh oysters (to balance out the quirkyness) -

I know what you mean about the “heavyness” of the Lafon Meursault - they are almost over decadent to me - that makes it so hard to pair it with any food (outside of shellfish that you can literally dip into the wine) -

Always fun to hang with you guys… other than the Rayas, we are on the same page…

DINNER W/ DAVE & CHRIS - Our house (6/3/2010)

  • 2007 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
    Multiple bottles tasted with consistent notes. Still going strong, this is a full-throttle, ripe incarnation of France’s flagship Rosé. Crisp and fresh, with just a touch of heat poking through on the long finish. I’m drinking up my last few 2007s and getting ready for the 2009s to hit the market in another month or two. (90 pts.)
  • 2000 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Promising color. A touch oxidized, perhaps just starting to come out of its dumb phase and ready to re-emerge? Ripe and a bit dull, and lacking acidity and freshness on the palate. Stone fruits, bitter orange, and beeswax flavors. Improved with air, but the finish is hot. Hopefully this will blossom in a few more years.
  • 2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Second time tasted. Compared with the bottle we opened in Burgundy nearly four years ago, this was larger-scaled, riper, and fuller-bodied. Bordering on Californian in its weight and lush flavor profile. Perfumed, minerally, and intense, with a long, persistent finish. (92 pts.)
  • 2002 Louis Latour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
    Corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2004 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Popped and poured (at my insistence). Fragrantly smoky nose. Intense, mid-weight dark fruit and tobacco/earth flavors that reminded me more of Graves than Cheval. A beautifully perfumed, elegant, finely structured Chaval that blossomed beautifully over the course of a few hours. There are some oaky/buttered popcorn flavors that have yet to integrate. The tannins are suave and ripe on the harmonious finish. This is very pleasurable at present and should be even more fun in ~5 years. (93 pts.)
  • 2001 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Felix - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Consistent with prior TN. A pleasant red-fruited CDP, softer and more advanced than one would expect given the vintage. A touch of brett. (89 pts.)