TN: Delicious Angerville at Bouley

WINE TALK
1

2009 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (9/27/2014)
My first experience with this bottling since they pulled the Angles out of it a few years ago. Well, it’s still great even without that classy juice. This is a superlative bottle, bursting with fresh red fruit as soon as it’s opened. This manages to be fruity and forward while keeping a red, fresh, and not candied fruit profile. The fruit has pulled back just enough to reveal the irony structure underpinning it, and this bottle is actually in a remarkably nice spot - the somm noted how surprisingly well it was showing. A kiss - but just a kiss - of whole cluster, very floral, bit of spice, and that silky texture. Touch of vanilla from the oak but it’s subtle. Beautiful bottle - reminds me of a Vosne but is too feminine to be Vosne; a bit like recent vintages of Rhys but without the too-ripe fruit character that Rhys tends to have. Will never understand how these burgs can get so ripe without being sweet or cola-like, but nothing else compares. Terrific young wine. (92 pts.)

2012 Hans Wirsching Silvaner Trocken - Germany, Franken (9/27/2014)
Underwhelming, my first disappointing bottle from this generally excellent producer. Flabby, muted, anonymous. Lacks fruit. Detracted from the excellent food served alongside it.(84 pts.)

The food at Bouley was superb as per usual.

2

DZ,
Please cite two specific, Post 2004 Rhys Estate Pinots (NOT Alesia) you considered “too-ripe”.
I’m curious as I’ve yet to experience an over-ripe Rhys Estate Pinot…

TTT

3

gosh, every one. I think of the Rhys style as overripe fruit with a light bodied.

4

In that case, as Bob Wood once said, you have the palate of a Yak… [wink.gif]

TTT

5

The wines aren’t bad, they just have typical Cali cola/birch notes. Rhys still hasn’t cracked the code to get the fruit expression “right”, but then again, no one south of the Willamette has with any consistency. I still don’t understand why Rhys can produce a wine with 13% abv and its dark, cola-tinged, and often vaguely sweet, and Angerville (or 2009 Pousse as well) produces a ripe, fruity wine with even a touch of a heat and the fruit expression is pure and not candied.

6

Concerning Rhys we can agree to sharply disagree…
I too am a huge fan of D’Angerville Volnays.

TTT

7

While I don’t dis Rhys, I did try a bunch at a Rhys dinner and found them all too ripe for my taste.

Love dAngerville!

8

same, definitely lots of ripe fruit. They are well made in the style tho.