Evening all,
I just popped this to have with dinner - buffalo meatballs and pasta. I think they’ll make a strangely good match…
Rioja Gran Reserva Imperial 2000, Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (CUNE)
Even after all the good recent experiences with this wine I’m still surprised by how nice it smells. Sure, you have to ignore all of the strange, slightly nasty aromas to like it; I still think that counts as ‘nice’. There is a obvious vanilla oak, which is drying a tad, and there is quite a lot of reasonably pretty fruit. The fruit is definitely not jammy with ripe berry skin and hints of plum. Hmmmm… this nose really exists as an electron-like wave of probability that inhabits all points, but at wildly varying frequencies, on the flavour continuum between mature Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges and ancient Penfold’s Grange. Perhaps that sounds a smidgen bonkers but that is precisely the nature of this bonkersly good nose. It tastes good – differently good. It is quite dry, showing the effects of extended ageing and being heavily pummelled with oak, yet there is refined, elegant fruit and the whole impression is one of savoury, sedate charm. There are a few odd acetone tones, as there are on the nose, but it is not difficult to see beyond them and find yourself quite enjoying this slightly off-the-wall number. It’s more modern in style than a lot of really grand old Riojas and so shows quite a lot of energy as well as the shagged-out crapulence of decent Gran Reserva Rioja. I do like it, lawks! I suppose you could keep it for ages in your cellar – if you are WEIRD!
Anon,
David.
Thank you for posting this here! I just commented on your post via Facebook, mentioning that yours is the only blog I read (since I have enough wine notes here that I don’t have time for…)
I’m surprised, however, that you are not a fan of Rioja in general, as I find many of the same ‘funkies’ with the nose to be similar to Burgundy in terms of the earthiness, and you fancy yourself a Burg-fan…
Todd,
Much to my surprise, it continues to grow on me, especially the older ones. The fruit can be quite similar to Burgundy it is true; I’ve been given some flash stuff from the 50s blind on a few occasions and guessed them as 60s and 70s Burgundy. However, I think the aldehyde/ketone aromas of Rioja and the dry, heavy American oak are quite different and usually enough of a clue that you are a long way away from the golden slope.
I am more flattered than even my florid and expansive imagination can handle that you read my blog, Todd - many thanks! I shall try and keep things florid and expansive in order to retain you as a one of my valued readers; I love both of you and would give you both a warm and friendly cuddle if you were in range and it didn’t perturb you too greatly 
Anon,
David.
David, have you had any of CVNE’s Vina Real gran reservas? I’m a fan of CVNE in general, but I tend to like Vina Real over the Imperial (which, for once, makes my preferences convenient, because Imperial usually fetches a significant premium over Vina Real in my neck of the woods). I think Vina Real tends to show a bit less of a heavy hand on the oak treatment (although it’s still there to a degree) and a little more finesse to Imperial’s power. Imperial gets bottled in bordeaux bottles, while Vina Real in burgundy bottles, and the analogy is actually somewhat on point.
By the way, these CVNE wines can AGE like a mother*#$!er. I semi-recently had a taste of a wine bottled at the bodega from bin ends of, if I recall correctly, 1948, 1950, and 1952 that were all blended together from bottles rejected at release due to low fill. The concoction was blended and bottled to 1L bottles that went to winery staff. It was one of the most delicious, fresh-tasting wines I have ever had – the wine of the night at a tasting that I think also featured Tondonia 1982 and some top 1978 gran reservas.