TASTING GROUP DINNER - CHATEAUNEUF AT HEIDI’S - Heidi’s & Our House, Minneapolis (6/11/2009)
Dave Dalluge, Craig Vanderah, Chris Larson, and I got together for a mid-week CDP tasting at Heidi’s. We wound up opening a grab bag of interesting wines at dinner, and then finishing the evening on my patio over CDP, Sauternes, and my wife Jennie’s freshly baked oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. My WOTN was a wonderful and still youthful '92 Henri Bonneau Réserve des Célestins. Thanks everyone for another really enjoyable evening.
Whites
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1994 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault En La Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Quite cheesy and musty upon opening, so much so that we thought the bottle was probably corked. After a few minutes, the funk dissipated, and what was underneath was still lively and structured, though fully mature. Apricots, petrol, sea shells, and apples; the nose reminded me of mature Riesling. Nutty and intense flavors, with quite a bit of dry botrytis on the long finish. Interesting and definitely worth the $20 that Dave found this for on Winebid. (89 pts.) -
2002 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Exotic, ripe, and really expressive. Fresh and clean, especially in comparison with the '94 Meursault that was tasted alongside. Tropical, dry botrytis-inflected, and saturated with kiwi and pineapple. The palate is deft and long, and still showing some toasty new oak. (93 pts.) -
2002 Franck Bonville Champagne Brut Millésimé Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
Crisp, toasty lemon, red apple, and citrus flavors. The palate is fruity and long, with a very nice sense of precision and lift. Really enjoyable stuff. (92 pts.)
Reds
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1990 Maison Leroy Maranges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Maranges
Ripe nose featuring caramel, soy, and some VA. Slightly bretty, funky, and earthy palate. Lots of black bean/soy flavors and modest fruit. The acidity is quite high, and the tannins are quite rustic. Drying finish. This was interesting to try, but I was not a big fan. (80 pts.) -
1998 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Third time tasted; consistent with prior notes. Flowers, bacon, and black truffles, with a core of meaty, high-toned red fruit. Expressive and delicious. (91 pts.) -
1998 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Prestige - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Very horsey and reductive immediately after opening. Dark, spicy, and complex palate with fully resolved tannins. This is a bit on the roasted/pruny side for my palate, but it seems to be evolving quite nicely. (90 pts.) -
1998 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Consistent with prior TN. Tasted alongside the '98 Roger Sabon Cuvee Prestige (see TN), the '98 Janasse VV was bigger and riper, yet also fresher on the palate. Sweet dark fruit and complex secondary flavors. A faint touch of heat on the finish. This bottle was fairly well evolved and if I owned any more of these (which I don’t), I would be drinking them up relatively soon. (92 pts.) -
2000 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I poured this blind for the group. Two tasters guessed New World Syrah; one guessed '03 Beaucastel. Indeed, this is a really ripe, sweet, modern-tasting CDP with gobs of black fruit, soy, and black truffle flavors, a suave texture, and a long finish. Pretty well evolved. Some VA on the nose, and some heat on the finish, yet somehow this stays reasonably well balanced in the glass. (90 pts.)
On The Patio
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1992 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Popped and poured. Beautifully layered, high-toned fruit, pepper, and garrigue, wrapped in silk. This has a streak of fresh herbs running from start to finish that just screams old-school CDP. Fantastic and my WOTN. (94 pts.) -
1988 Château Raymond-Lafon - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From half bottle. Surprisingly youthful. Juicy tropical fruit, nuts, and minerals. Very nice acid balance. Long finish. (92 pts.)