TN: Chateau Laffitte-Teston Reve D'Automne Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh

WINE TALK
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Berserkers,

Decided to pull this out of my collection as I had a sneaky suspicion it would not be long for this world. Unfortunately, I am right and may have even gotten to it a little late. I thought I should post on this anyway due to the fact that Southwestern dessert wines from France don’t get much love as they toil in the shadow of Sauternes, Barsacs, VTs and SGNs.

CHATEAU LAFFITTE-TESTON 2009 Reve D’Automne Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh – A Southwestern France dessert wine from 100% Petit Manseng grapes harvested in late autumn.

In the glass as you see in the pic below, the wine has turned to a rusty orange, indicating a degree of maderization has occurred. On the nose, strong fruity aromas of quince – and I mean quince, I’ve actually had it – are nearly overwhelmed by stewed fruit aromas. I can just tell already this is going to be heartbreaking.

In the mouth, sweet flavors of very ripe quince, starfruit and fresh lemons is underscored by a tell-tale maderized burnt sugar and oxidized fruit flavor that threatens to ruin the wine. It is still quite drinkable and has a surprisingly high amount of balancing acidity. But you can tell that this was something truly great in its youth, very reminiscent of North American style late harvest wines but with much more finesse, balance and fruit-forward flavors.

There was definitely greatness here and I left it pass by. So heartbreaking! [cry.gif] One of two things should’ve happened here – this wine should’ve either been closed with a screwcap or I should’ve drunk it back in 2011 when I first purchased it from the SAQ. Since the French detest screwcaps on their fine wines, I’m going to have the drink the next bottle much younger. The website shows they currently have the 2012 vintage in and I should get that next time I’m in Montreal and drink it this year for a comparison.
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Pity. I have had a few Pacherenc in my time but find it hard to fathom how this `09 went downhill so fast. Could be a store issue some where?

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I had an '88 last year from Alain Brumont. It was still drinking beautifully.

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@Steven: Funny you should mention Alain Brumont. The SAQ sells a number of his Pacherencs including a 95 and 96 Frimaire, so I know they can be long lived. They also sell his 08 Brumaire and and an 08 Chateau Bouscassé but these are in the $20 range as is the Chateau Laffitte-Teston. The Frimaires are $85 apiece so they are commanding top price for the longevity which does make sense. Just further reinforces to me I should drink the next one younger.

My real concern is that I have a couple of full-sized bottles of Lionel Osmin 09 Jurancon which is the same type of wine and I wonder how long they will last.