I haven’t been feeling much like writing notes lately, but it’s coming back slowly. I’ve started working out the notes of “Sundays with Barry pt. 3” and there are loads more under way, but I felt like today’s wine was worthy of a TN before the memory fades.
It has a lightly intense straw coloured core and sports a watery rim. Upon opening, the nose is medium-minus intense and displays some unfocused citrus notes and an impression of chalky minerals. On the palate it has about medium weight and while perfectly pleasant, it lacks flavour intensity and doesn’t come close to a Grand Cru experience.
Three hours of slow oxygenation see a distinct improvement on all fronts. The nose has picked up to medium intensity and now displays well defined notes of grapefruit, diffuse oyster shell minerality (first time I actually smelled it like that), a chlorine overtone and a touch of lemon rind.
On the palate it’s actually medium-plus bodied by now, and not quite pronounced acidity is kept in check by a layer of ripeness not normally associated with steely Valmur. There’s a gooseberry-like quality to the medium-plus intense midpalate fruit and although the minerals do lend some additional lift, the finish runs out of steam after 15 seconds and loses cohesion after 20.
I have no qualms with admitting my general view of Chablis is somewhat contorted. Over the last four years, my former white Bourgogne budget has been spent mostly on Raveneau and Dauvissat with some Billaud-Simon for the shorter term thrown in. Notwithstanding all that, I don’t feel like this wine has transcended the vintage. There’s nothing exactly wrong with it either, but I just don’t feel like I’m getting a Grand Cru experience. I’ll give 91 points, but don’t see it improving much and would advise to drink up from 2012-2015.