TN: Catching up with quick impressions of recent wines

Been derelict for a bit, so:

1999 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses - a wonderful champagne, rich without excess weight, nice acidity, very complex, great lifting nose. Served in white wine glasses and I’m a convert for sure. The wine just got better and better in the glass. Still available at many places in NYC, and I might be getting more.

2006 Dagueneau Pur Sang - I’m a fan. Amazing what the man could do with sauvignon blanc. Great mix of power and precision. As it opened in the glass, it also just got better and better. Towards the end, hazelnuts began to emerge on the palate. The price is hurtful, but it is a singular expression of the grape.

2005 Sea Smoke Southing - It’s just not my style of pinot noir, but for the style it’s very well done. Huge, but not out-of-balance, it has enough complexity at this point to poke through the big fruit.

1997 Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon - Weird wine. Overwhelming cedar/camphor notes on nose and palate. Smelled and tasted like opening an old cedar chest. Another black eye for the initially overrated vintage?

2005 Eric Kent Dry Creek Valley Syrah - While I’m not convinced that the pinot noirs from this producer have a long life in them, the syrahs are coming along nicely. This 2005 has excellent balance with no apparent heat on the finish (15.9% abv on label), is fully integrated and has charming complexity. I’m in no rush to pop the few I have left.

Collin - Opportunity to chime in. neener

I’ve tried Sea Smoke a few times, but not anything as young as the '05. Last one was the '02 Southing in early June 2008 - it was actually opened as a back-up bottle because my '93 Armand Clos des Epeneaux turned out to be undrinkably damaged.

Not my preferred style either, but not bad at all. Not really fair to compare Cali or Oregon pinots to Burgs, I feel. They are very different animals.

2002 Sea Smoke Southing - A beautiful, darkly reflective red with a midnight red-violet core. The aromas, initially vaguely truffled and very earthy, are generous with ripe, dark red berries (cherry, raspberry and some strawberry), spice (hints of cinammon), vanilla/oak; all of which were richly and enthusiastically mirrored on the palate in a confidently full body with a touch or kirsch and subtle chocolate and violet undertones. Long and strong, its finish was consistent with its middle. No real mystery or profound complexity here, but a lot of up-front entertainment.

Notably, cola notes, usually at the forefront of California pinot noirs, were barely noticeable. I think this is a good thing. Typically Californian, this wine cannot fairly be accused of refined subtlety or quiet elegance.

I doubt anyone will ever mistake it for a Burgundy, nor should anyone ever expect to. Cali pinot is a totally different animal - more about lively enjoyment and boisterous laughter rather than deep, somber conversation. Each has its place.

As regards the pairing, as can be seen in the picture, the duck is richly sauced. Carlo Miguel’s dishes are robust, enthusiastic and can reach the level of no-holds-barred decadence. Thus, the Sea Smoke was a good, serendipitous match as it easily held its own against my main course. I’d imagine this duck in its sauce would probably have overpowered a 15-year old Pommard.