This was only my second opportunity to join with Jayaram and company for a Friday lunch, and the first that was, as these lunches usually are, Burgundy oriented. (Last time we focused on some wonderful, '97 vintage, Italian wines.) Since I work well south of these lunches, it’s often been hard to get there in time. Last week, though, I was particulary incentivized to be there, both due to the Burg theme, and because I spent a miserable preceding week engaged in intense Union negotiations, which I was very much in need of a break from. This time the themes ended up being Mongeard-Mugneret (flight 2) and mature Nuits-St.-Georges (3rd blind flight). All in all, we had some tasty wines, and I was gratified for the opportunity to load up on some Burgundian versions of Pinot, before losing myself in the sea of Cali Pinot coming with Pinot Days.
White Flight
Gosh, these whites were remarkably ill-fated. The only one that wasn’t somehow afflicted by premox or TCA was the '02 Jadot Meursault, which may not have been as good as it tasted that afternoon, after 3 other potentially good Chard-based French whites had “crapped out.”
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1999 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium gold color; premox, butter, hazelnut nose; hazelnut, sherried palate; medium finish (81 pts.) -
2002 Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d’Or - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light medium gold color; nice butter, mineral, lovely nose; very tasty, rounded lemon, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.) -
1999 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium gold color; a little oxidized and TCA on nose; tart citrus, mineral, a little TCA affected on palate, light oily texture; medium finish NR (flawed) -
2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Light medium golden color; oxidized, hazelnut, buttered rum nose; mature tasting butter, butter rum and ripe citrus palate; short-medium finish (89 pts.)
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2002 Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Narbantons - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; lovely roses, sous bois nose; tasty framboise, sous bois, roses and tangy red fruit palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.) -
2002 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Medium bricking red color; brett, mature tart cherry and sous bois nose; touch of brett on the palate, maturing tart red fruit, sous bois, mineral palate with depth; medium finish (92 pts.) -
2002 Mongeard-Mugneret Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; TCA on nose; cherry palate, lacking complexity, TCA affected; short-medium finish NR (flawed) -
2001 Mongeard-Mugneret Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Medium red color with pale meniscus; lovely roses, delicate strawberry, sous bois and mineral nose; young yet, lovely tart red fruit, strawberry, sous bois, mineral palate with depth, and a chlorine note; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.) -
1998 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light medium bricking red color with clear meniscus; nice mature raspberry, strawberry, sous bois and mineral nose; nice mature red fruit, ripe framboise core, mineral, roses and iron palate; medium finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.)
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1998 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; VA, mature cherry nose; solid, maturing, tart red fruit, iron, rosehips palate with firm but resolving tannins; medium finish (92 pts.) -
1998 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium bricking red color with pale meniscus; nice mature cherry red fruit, strawberry nose; tasty, balanced, maturing, cherry, mineral and iron palate with a core of ripe cherry; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.) -
1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Very bricking and slightly muddy medium red color with pale meniscus; mature, weedy, brett and tart red fruit nose; mature tart red fruit palate with mineral, iron and brett; short-medium finish (87 pts.) -
1997 Hospices de Nuits Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges Cuvée Georges Faiveley Faiveley (Hospices Auction Group) - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Medium dark bricking red color with clear meniscus; lovely maturing, baked cherry, mushroom and mineral nose; tasty, poised, mature but elegant, tart red fruit, mineral, iron and tart raspberry palate; medium-plus finish (94 pts.) -
2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Slightly bricking medium dark red color with pale meniscus; brett, sous bois, tart strawberry, barnyard nose; brett, tart red fruit, strawberry, iron palate with lime acidity; medium finish (93 pts.)
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2001 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Medium honey yellow color; lovely botrytis, coconut, apricot nose; tasty, big apricot, ripe kumquat, coconut palate; long finish (94 pts.) -
2001 Château Coutet - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Medium gold color; ripe apricot, ripe lime nose solid apricot, dried apricot, pear and clementine palate; medium-plus finish (89 pts.) -
2006 Domaine Tissot (André & Mireille now Stéphane) Arbois Audace Poulsard passerillé sur paille - France, Jura, Arbois
Medium dark cranberry red color; VA, dried cherry, currant nose with a green note; tasty dried cranberry, dried cherry, red plum, preserved lemon, preserved clementine and floral palate; long finish (94 pts.)
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