PH WINE MERCHANT BURG NIGHT - Atlanta (5/6/2012)
A great evening hosted by Anthony Yambor at PH Wine Merchant in Atlanta. Started off with champagne, went into four interesting paired flights, then a one off “surprise” and a bonus white to wrap us up.
Champagne Intro
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2002 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
Love this grower champagne, I’m a sucker for this kind of distinctive blend of yeast and acidity and enough sugar to make it interesting. There’s a yeasty caramel brownie quality to the nose, rich and crisp at once, touches of aged gouda, lemon cake, nice balanced acidity. From Epernay / Oger. (93 pts.)
Vosne-Romanee Flight
08 vs 09. Same grower - Grivot - but the 09 is Pascal Marchand (negociant). Both villages wines. While at first I liked the purity of the 08, after some time in the glass, the 09 beat the 08 for me, and I think it has more stuffing to go the distance as a very good villages wine.
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2008 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
A few hours air in open bottle. The nose is on, perfume, berry, spice, earth. Super young - tart dirty cherries. Destemmed and it shows in a pure way. (90 pts.) -
2009 Pascal Marchand Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Grapes from Jean Grivot, includes some Les Suchots. Intensity of the 09 vintage shows here, dark in color, dark in character. Cellar sawdust, stems and oak are evident, so young, good bones. (91 pts.)
Pommard Flight
Again, 08 vs 09. Voillot’s Les Pezerolles kicked Marchand’s Les Epenots’ butt. The Les Pezerolles is just my kind of Pommard - elegant stuff.
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2008 Domaine Joseph Voillot Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
A few hours of air in open bottle. Beautiful elegant nose, rose, cherry, earth. A touch of anise. Balanced long finish. Still young but drinking very nicely. My kind of burg. (Grapes from area next to Les Epenots and Les Rugiens. No new oak and it benefits from this if you ask me) (93 pts.) -
2009 Pascal Marchand Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Dark, young, wood and vanilla, meaty tannins. Way way young, a bit bigger than what I like in a Pommard. Had a few hours air in open bottle. (90 pts.)
Gevrey-Chambertin Flight
Both 09s, both so young of course, the Serafin Vielles Vignes was bigger, meatier - I preferred the intrigue of the Combe Aux Moines from Marchand.
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2009 Pascal Marchand Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe Aux Moines - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
A few hours of air in open bottle. Someone at the table called this and they are exactly right - the nose is baby poop inasmuch as that can be a good thing. There’s a certain stage of baby poop (still on breast milk, TMI?) that smells exactly like this. There’s a nice floral quality to it, a touch of smoky tobacco. Dark fruit with a mineral edge. This has years to go but going in a great direction. (1 barrel made??? Grapes from Domaine Fourier) (93 pts.) -
2009 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Big crazy nose. Mineral floral beef jerky, lush dark fruit, VERY young, but I expect really good things of this down the road. (60% 1er grapes, 6 barrels total made) A few hours air in open bottle. (92 pts.)
Charmes-Chambertin Flight
Two heavy hitters, both VERY impressive, both very young. The Dugat-Py edges out the Roty for me, but not by much.
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2007 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Baby killing. Simply gorgeous wine though. It’s got a tinge of brown around the edges. Starts off light then gets more intense in mid-palate. My notes were limited at this point in the night! A few hours air in open bottle. (94 pts.) -
2007 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Baby killing. Simply gorgeous wine though. My notes were limited at this point in the night! A few hours air in open bottle. (94 pts.)
Bonus - Echezeaux
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2008 Lucien Le Moine Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Baby killing. Intense nose, powerful, a touch of heat actually . Not sure how long this was open, but it needed more air. Floral and earthy with a touch of popcorn in the nose, dark cherry - mouth is like “heavy silk” velvety, but some hard tannins, bacon/lardo type notes as well. Give this a decade or so. (93 pts.)
Bonus - White - Meursault
The oldest wine of the night, and the only one (well, also the Champagne) that’s in a perfect drinking spot right now. Love this. Great value too - the best bang for the buck of the night.
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1995 Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
You know the term “sweet spot”? This is there. (Tasted at end of a long night, a great ending). (93 pts.)
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