TN: Buona Pasqua

For the Easter-that-wasn’t, I present wines that weren’t drunk today. Since so much of life is not normal at the moment, let’s reflect on what was rather than what we wish it to be. From the past several months or thereabouts:

Domaine Pegau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 2001
There is a slight floral note (lilac? lavender?) that pops out for a brief second on the nose before forever going away, never to be witnessed again by the olfactory organs. Mulled fruits of prune and earth, river mud. Get the sense this would have been better a few years ago. unrated.

Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis, ‘Vaillons’, 2002
Sunflower petal yellow. Nice weight and drinking well, with sunflower seed and petals, cooked lemon rind, a bit of lanolin and enoki mushroom, along with good acidity and a saline finish. Nice indeed at 18 years.

Felsina, Chianti Classica Riserva, ‘Rancia’, 2008
I am almost always more impressed by Rancia than actually enjoying it. So why do I have so much in my cellar? Because everyone to a fault says this is required drinking if you like Chianti. Hogwash.
Always a big wine, it is so again in this weaker year, and in that context, this is a success. There’s the blackberry paste, wild blueberry, and muddy Chinese black tea, reigned in by decent acidity. Dark and dirty as usual. Had a weird funkiness that lingered for several minutes when poured into a glass at first, but this blew off. To it’s credit it was best on the 2nd day.

Lapiere, Morgon, 2012
Cherry-strawberry-and straw…a little bit of talc. Bit simple and losing fruit freshness to me. Fading or heading to pinosité? Two more bottles to find out.

Maxime Dancoine, Vins de Pays des Allobroges IGP, ‘l’Aitonnement Genesis’, 2016
I forgot what this is or why I bought it, which is okay because nothing extraordinary stood out. Very neutralish, dull waxy fruit, slightly oxidative, with an herbal bite on the end. Very transparent, like drinking water. Comes with a plastic cork, so probably your cue to drink up.

Domaine Roulot, Monthelie, 2009
Delicate raspberry & strawberry flavors, with sticky tannins and a stony finish. Slight bit of pink grapefruit and orange rind. Not bad for a humble appellation! 12.8%

Filipa Pato, Bairrada, ‘Nossa Calcario’, 2015
100% bical, as far as i know. Light whitish gold colored. Bright lemon fruit with the acidity having an almost effervescent effect. Medium bodied, herbally, with a calcium finish. This is quite good, but probably for shorter term aging. 12%

Frradiles, Mandrolisai, Rosso Superiore, ‘Istentu’, 2014
What the hell IS this? Sardegna, huh. It’s made of some weird grapes, you guys can look them up. At 15%, no shrinking violet and probably not the wine to pair with vegetarian dinner. Ah well…lessons learned. The nose is very dense, having a slightly perfumed quality, but that thought disappears when you embrace this youthful little monster of a wine. Crabapple and wild persimmon type tannins present a wall so thick it is like stepping into a black hole. Lots of roots: gentian, ginseng, with an interesting wild finish braced by acidity. Ideally this needs at least 4-5 years before being broached, but I think it can work with fatty strong meats (pork ribs?). Certainly needs food and preferably MEAT.

Julien Sunier, Fleurie, 2014
Pale limpid color. A wine that drinks like a rosé or a Jura red. Red fruited nose, but very light. Tasting blind I would hard pressed to call this Beaujolais.

Chateau Musar, Bekaa Valley, 2000
[top shoulder fill] 13.5% A light raspberry red color with some warm orange tints. A little skunky initially, but reveals a pleasant red-fruited nose. There is some slight volatility, but nothing concerning, red fruit (red plum and chokecherry), some spices (cinnamon, nutmeg), and mushroom on the finish, along with cement. It feels a little muted, but not sure if this is its age and being woken up. Still holding its own. Nice!