TN: Birthday Weekend

WINE TALK
1

Quiet Thursday dinner at a couple of locations. Happened to run into a friend who hooked us up with some Marcassin.

  • 2005 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (7/23/2009)
    All sulfur and matchstick notes, with some hints of orange fruits. More tolerable on the palate - large scaled, waxy fruit profile. Intense wine. Could probably benefit from some decanting at this stage.
  • 2000 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (7/23/2009)
    Spicy blue fruits, clearly tempered by age. Nice front - but seems a bit more mature than it should be. Noticable VA on the finish. Enjoyable, but disappointing given the pedigree.

Friday dinner at Bristol in Chicago.

  • 2005 Peter Michael Chardonnay La Carrière - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley (7/24/2009)
    Citrus and waxy mineral notes. Far more subdued and elegant than I’m used to from PM - almost Burgundian in a Meursault sort of way. Well structured. Very nice.
  • 2005 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (7/24/2009)
    Light color. Like liquid sulfur - full of matchbook notes that overwhelm what seems to be a more subtle wine; even for BdM. Hard to judge.
  • 1979 Château Ausone - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (7/24/2009)
    Lighter-bodied red fruits and tobacco leaf notes. Elegant, feminine styling. Really streamlined profile - no hard edges here. Fine, soft strucure. Fully mature. Really good.
  • 1961 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/24/2009)
    Still big, but in a superposition of young/old at the moment. Some tomato juice notes, with cassis and dark fruits. Tobacco. Toned down structure that leaves things a bit angular; still, a very enjoyable wine.
  • 2001 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (7/24/2009)
    Big wine - a mistake to open this now. All dark fruits, plum and tobacco, but very firmly held in check by lots of tannins. Despite its size, gives an elegant impression. Very promising, but needs time.
  • 1971 Pétrus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (7/24/2009)
    Just super - even better than my last bottle. Dark, plummy fruits and tobacco notes. Voluptuous and restrained at the same time. Pretty, soft mouthfeel. Great balance. Delicious.
  • 1995 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (7/24/2009)
    Heady dark fruits. More masculine styling than I’m used to with Gaja. Fine structure; streamlined profile. Some tarry notes. Very good.
  • 2005 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore (7/24/2009)
    Big wine misplaced in a rather elegant lineup, which didn’t give this the respect it probably deserves. Dark red fruits. Tart, big structure. Cassis notes. Fine.

Main event, Saturday wine group.

  • 2004 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (7/25/2009)
    Surprisingly light on its feet for Coche, and very '04 in style. Big, firm lemon curd and gooseberry-type notes. Huge acidity and a great mineral backbone. Intense, mouth puckering. Very young. Super wine, but hard to justify the tariff.
  • 1990 Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (7/25/2009)
    From magnum. Very '90 in style - ripe, full bodied baked apple and yeasty notes. Firm but balanced acidity and mousse. Rich for Salon. Really good.
  • 1976 Antonin Rodet Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (7/25/2009)
    Amber color. All sous-bois and slight metalic notes, with some alcoholic warmth and enough backbone left to keep things enjoyable. Medium body, but sufficient weight. Enjoyable; nice surprise.
  • 2003 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (7/25/2009)
    Almost new world, cutly styling, with a cherry cola nose and floral notes. Full, round palate despite its youth. Not over ripe or at all heavy. Some mineral backbone. Low acidity. Very enjoyable now. Big wine.
  • 2003 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (7/25/2009)
    Big time wine. All purple fruits; pretty floral aromatics. Firm but great clarity in more of an '02 style. Round. Well balanced. As good an '03 as I’ve had.
  • 1996 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7/25/2009)
    Light color. Super spicy wine. Mature, with some VA creeping through and sous-bois type notes. Medium body. Soft palate and resolved structure. Very nice.
  • 1970 Château Margaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (7/25/2009)
    A bit corked unfortunately, but some tobacco leaf and cedar notes with a blue fruit component I don’t often get with Margaux. Resolved and mature.
  • 1976 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Surprisingly feminine Latour with dark fruits and tobacco leaf. Some underlying power; firm tannins for what remain. Mature. Enjoyable wine.
  • 1976 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Some merlot influence clearly coming through in a softer, green tobacco leaf profile. Sweet, candied red cherry fruit. Fully mature. Feminine styling and stremlined profile. Very nice '76.
  • 1976 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Superimposed red/black fruits. Masculine styling. Somewhat of a disconnect in the fruit profile and structure. Firm. Very alive. Enjoyable.
  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    From magnum. Dark fruits and tarry notes. Pretty red/black cherry. Very firm, almost closed down. Tannic, big wine. Not particularly accessable, but very good elements.
  • 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Really pretty nose - black cherry and tobacco. Seamless wine. Really streamlined. Full bodied, but nowhere near the sheer size or power of the '86. Fine tannins. Very good.
  • 1989 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (7/25/2009)
    As always, a really good wine. Super pretty nose with tobacco leaf overtones. Very feminine styling. Pure, streamline profile with no edges. Drinking more young with grapey red fruits than I’m used to. Very nice.
  • 1990 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Delicate, soft, with a significant merlot influence and green tobacco notes. Fine structure. Have never understood the controversy with this wine; I find it consistently very nice.
  • 1995 Château Angélus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (7/25/2009)
    Soft, ripe, leather and tobacco notes with a spicy dark fruit component and a nice green streak. Really approachable for a '95. Pretty wine. Round, soft mouthfeel. Very nice.
  • 2004 Château Le Pin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (7/25/2009)
    Exotic but new world syling. Candy apple and lychee type notes. Forward red cherry notes. Medium body. Softer palate; clearly Merlot-dominant. Fine tannins. Elegant wine. Needs time, but nice elements.
  • 2005 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (7/25/2009)
    Hazelnut oil and heavy citrus. Heady, with alcoholic warmth. Enjoyable, but offers nothing to keep me from wondering why they just don’t rip these up and plant more Musigny.
  • 1961 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (7/25/2009)
    Lucky to try this twice in one weekend. This bottle is more bloody mary type tomato juice notes. Some tea leaf and tobacco. Showing its age a bit. No tannins, but some balancing acidity leaves this a bit top heavy. Enjoyable.
  • 1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (7/25/2009)
    Big time nose. Just super aromatics of well spiced meat and dark fruits. Exotic. Well balanced palate. Full, but elegant lines and very light on its feet. No seams. Great wine; better than my very, very good last bottle.
  • 1949 Château Cheval Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (7/25/2009)
    From half-bottle. Surprisingly alive and fruit forward. Red fruits and a tobacco-leaf undercurrent. Great balance; no seams. Enough structure remaining to keep things vibrant and alive. Stellar wine.
  • 1989 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (7/25/2009)
    A bit cidery on the nose. Tropical fruits. Gummy, cotton candy like flavors/texture. Creme brulee notes. Big d’Yquem. Round, firm. Very nice.
  • 1994 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano - Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vin Santo di Montepulciano (7/25/2009)
    Dark brown sugar and madeira notes. Teeth-rattling sweetness. Caramel. Super thick and viscous. Intense stuff; very nice.
2

Hi Phil,

Nice to meet you yesterday and share in your birthday festivities. I can honestly say I have never had a line up of wines for my birthday even remotely close to what we drank yesterday. It looks like there were a few more surprises after I left yesterday, the 1949 Cheval Blanc was one of those “Aha” wines for me when I first tried it in 1976 at an auction. Sounds like the wine was still breathing but I was able to try it back then along side the legendary 1947 and it more than held its own.

Did note take any notes but my standouts were as follows:

1996 Rayas which was fully mature and displaying beautiful aromatics and elegance with great depth of flavor. The color was lighter than expected but reminded me of a fully mature grand cru Burgundy in its complexity and finesse.

2004 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne was absolutely killer. It is still a baby but as the wine warmed up a very complex nose of apple, citrus,spice, petrol, and wet stones jumped out of the glass. Great persistence and minerality in the flavor with a long finish. I agree with you on the tariff for this wine but I was sure glad I was able to try it.

Of the three Bordeauxs from your birth date I would give the edge to the 1976 Pichon Lalande. All three wines show very nicely but the fruit on the Pichon had more freshness and vibrancy.

2005 Angelus was amazing and drinkling wonderfully.Still years ahead of it but great intensity of fruit and balance.

1982 Mouton did not disappoint. Wonderful combination of power and elegance. Not the best bottle I have ever had of this vintage but
very delicious.

2003 Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin reminded me a a young California Pinot Noir which is not a bad thing for me. Needs more time to develop some complexity but all the pieces are there to make for a great burgundy experience down the road.

Great afternoon of food and wine and hope to see you again at one of the Saturday afternoon wine meetings.

3

Happy B-day! I always pegged you as a Burg guy. Out of that very great line-up I would have loved to try the Chave Cathelin. I’ve never had one.

4

Sort of think of myself that way, but I’ve been drinking with more Bordeaux folks lately so… when in Rome…

Fully agree on the '76 Pichon Lalande being the best of the '76s, and my note doesn’t properly capture the Rayas, which is very good indeed. My favorite yesterday was the '95 Cathelin. One of the best wines I’ve had all year… don’t remember if you were still there for that one Jim.

5

Phil,

Missed the 95 Cathelin, 89 d’Yquem, 49 Cheval Blanc and 94 Vin Santo. I have tasted everything but the 95 Chave Cathelin before and would have loved to try it as it sounds amazing.

Once again, glad I was part of your B-day festivities and if anyone worries about when to open their “special bottles” the best time to do it is when you pop them with a group of people who love great wine and enjoy the shared experience.