TN: Benjamin Leroux extracts pleasure from where I've rarely found it

Evening all,

I fully accept this view comes from me being a distinctly elitist swine, but in all honesty my general view of Savigny-les-Beaune wines is that they are best endured by those who don’t really think enjoying one’s self is a state to be aspired to. You know? The joyless misery-types - how tiresome they are with their refusal to have fun. However, that totally lovely and manifestly talented fellow Benjamin Leroux has made one that I am rather taken with. I think his winemaking both at Comte Armand and with his own wines is not only highly accomplished but also of definitely recognisable character. I love that character.

Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Les Hauts Jarrons 2007, Benjamin Leroux
It is rather pale, a sight that always pleases me as I know it means those loathsome arses who insist on their wines being at the black end of the inky purple spectrum will steer clear. The fruit on the nose is ripe and bright with a fresh, lively character. This nose is that of a light charmer that may not be rabidly livid with dimension but I feel it has a polished refinement that I associate with Benny L’s stylish creations. The palate is light-bodied and charged with fresh, crunchy fruit. Very good acidity here and a structure of correctly bracing rigour. It is charged with vivid energy, I feel it should be tumultuous and fuming as it sits in my glass. Even with it’s spirited zesty character I’m getting a definite Leroux silky intricacy from it. Savigny at it’s best should be a light and invigorating drop, which this certainly is, but it asks for more of my attention and respect than anything else of that origin I’ve ever encountered. 2007 is a fun, accessible vintage and I think you should be popping yours soon to revel in that verve whilst it is florid and expressive. It won’t fall apart in the immediate future, though.

Cheers,
David.

David,

Nice to see a note on Monsieur Leroux. I just acquired 3 bottles of his 08 Volnay Clos de le Cave des Ducs so your post is well-timed. Sounds like he preserves fruit character and holds the line on excessive oak. Hopefully these bottles will shine also.

Cheers,
Doug

The 2008 SLB is delicious as well, really delicate Burgundy.
I got to taste through his '09s in tank/cask and thought that his wines were terrific and delightfully pure. Really amazing what is going on with his negociant.
Doug, I haven’t tasted the '08 Volnay but I would expect that it’s showing quite well - of course on the young side.
Disclaimer: I wholesale his wines in MA

Daniel,

Thanks for the heads up on the 09s. Will definitely try to source some.

Cheers,
Doug