TN: Alana 2006 "Autumn in Tokaj" Tokaji

Berserkers,

It’s been a while since I’ve had a Tokaji wine and I’ve found a very unusual one at the LCBO that is really interesting, so here’s a tasting note on it:

ALANA 2006 “AUTUMN IN TOKAJ” TOKAJI

SUMMARY: The love child between an icewine and a botrytised wine.

This unusual Tokaji is composed of a mix of botrytised, late harvested and frozen grapes. As such, it does indeed share characteristics of classic Tokaji, late harvest and icewine. As you can see in the pic, in the glass it is a bright but heavy straw gold. Sweet vanilla creme brulée nose virtually indistinguishable from Sauternes on the nose.

In the mouth, a full-bodied but extremely clean texture with an excellent soft mouthfeel similar to that of an icewine. Syrupy but clean if that makes any sense. Sweet and pristine tropical fruit flavors of mandarins, peaches in syrup, papaya and banana. Here, the flavor is all Tokaji thought it leans a little towards Sauternes on the finish with lots of banana and vanilla creme brulée. Pretty much a tropical fruit salad in a glass.

Some bright acidity prevents the wine from being too cloying, though not enough to drag it into Riesling dessert wine territory. Really, the only true criticism I can level at the wine is that it lacks the distinguishing botrytis glycerin tingle that a top Sauternes or Tokaji would have but that is to be expected given the wine’s unique makeup. This was actually a good match with a cajun chicken spinach salad (you can just the edge of the bowl on the right of my pic) for my dinner tonight as the sweet clean wine washed out the spiciness of the chicken from my palate and then the crisp greens cleaned the sweetness from it as well.

Overall this leans heavily in similarity towards a Canadian or American icewine but then gives you just enough of a reminder that it is in fact a Tokaji though it never does a full crossover. An icewine made in the same vintage year would already be maderized in the same timeframe. If you enjoy icewine but can’t stand the fact that it doesn’t age well, this is the sweet wine to keep in your cellar and enjoy. RECOMMENDED
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Tran - they make great wines. If you get a chance, try every one you can. They’re wonderful people and I have never had a mediocre wine from them. They epitomize the best of Tokaj today - dedicated, passionate, and talented producers. They are the future of Tokaj.