Just as my first experience with Burlotto was with the pelaverga (see my notes from my Burlotto visit), the first G.D. Vajra wine that made an impression on my was their Langhe Bianco, made from riesling. I’ve had very few of their reds, so I visited the cantina on June 3 to get a better sense for the rest of their wines, and their Baroli in particular.
The winery is perched in the hamlet of Vergne, high on a ridge at 450 meters, above the town of Barolo, not far from La Morra and the highest wine town in the Langhe. The surrounding vineyards run up to 400 meters, the upper limit for quality there.
As a footnote, the family name is spelled Vaira, but they found historical variants including Vayra and Vajra, and opted for the latter as the brand name.
The standouts for me, in their categories, are marked with asterisks.
*2009 Langhe Bianco (riesling)
Completely dry and very taught at the moment, like a good young German Trocken. As it warmed up, it became more and more complex. They suggest that it needs three to seven years, and I wouldn’t quarrel with that. Definitely needs time – again, like a good Trocken – and very promising. 13.5%
2008 Dolcetto (Coste & Fossati vineyards)
A bit hard and charmless, like a lot of 2008 reds I tasted.
2007 Barbera Superiore (from the Bricco delle Viole vineyard)
Nice grapiness (which I want in a barbera); ripe but not hot (14.5%). Spends one year in oak. Didn’t excite me, though.
*2009 Nebbiolo (from Novello and Sinio)
Good, pure nebbiolo character. Very young. Aged in steel. They recommend six to seven years of aging, which seems right to me. This is not a quaffable young nebbiolo; more like a Produttori normale/Torre. I was happy to find this for $20 at my corner store when I returned home. I opened one at dinner at Keith Levenberg’s but am putting two others away. 88+ points.
2006 Barolo Albe (a blend of Coste, La Viola, Fosatti vineyards)
This is a blend made to sell at a moderate price ($28-$35 in the U.S.). Traditional methods: 30-day maceration, 36 months in Slovenian botte. The vines are ~25 years old.
Very ripe and extracted. Fairly approachable, but not that interesting to me.
*2006 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
Fabulous aromas and great concentration and depth, yet elegant. Not knowing Vajra wines, this was a revelation. Forty-day maceration; 40-42 months in oak botte; 40-60-year-old vines. They expect it to require 15 years or so, and I have no reason to doubt that. 93+ points (very high on my scale).
2010 Moscato d’Asti
Lovely, light, refreshing, with intense muscat flavors.
*Barolo Chinato
Made with more than 50 herbs, including licorice, chamomile, citrus, dried orange, cinnamon and ginseng. More bitter than some, but I liked that. 92+
*2006 Luigi Baudana Barolo “Baudana”
In 2008, Vajra purchased the Baudana estate in Serralunga, at the far end of the Barolo zone, both geographically and stylistically. The 2005 wines were nearly complete when the purchase was made, so that year and later vintages are being released by Vajra. The wines will continue to be sold under the Baudana label.
The new oak regime at Baudana has been dialed back from 2006 on, though the 2006 had spent some time in barrique by the time Vajra took control.
The color of the Baudana was lighter than that of the Bricco delle Viole, but in the mouth the wine had the unmistakable masculinity of Serralunga. Very good. 92+
See also my tasting notes from Rizzi in Treiso (Barbaresco).
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