The 1998 Lanson which I drank earlier in the week was a recently purchased bottle, one of a large number I bought. Having tasted it, I think it has a long future ahead of it. A few days later here I am already drinking the last of my 1995 Lanson, a dirty and dusty bottle which seems to have been residing in my cellar forever, certainly for more than five years, probably more like seven or eight. And yet there is only three years difference between the two vintages.
So I waved goodbye to this vintage (as far as Lanson is concerned, anyway) as well as another of the non-vintage Lansons that I picked up for a song just over four years ago. This was part of a good Costco deal, and preceded the waves of cheap Lanson that came onto the market during the following year or two as the Mora family, the owners at that time, struggled to find willing investors, eventually selling up to Boizel, led by Bruno Paillard, in 2006. Although perhaps a slightly earlier release than many bottles residing in UK cellars, it still indicates the longevity of this non-vintage cuvée.
Lanson Black Label NV: In the cellar for four years. Crystal clear, lemon-gold hue, with a moderate bead. Still very crisp, remarkably youthful, with crystalline fruit on the nose, although with little touches of mushrooms and honey too. The same character on the palate, exuberant in terms of structure, lively and full-on mousse, crisp fruit acidity, fresh and vivacious rather than relaxed, seductive or evolved. The last bottle seemed more ready (and rather un-Lanson in style) but this seems more typical, and still has years to go. Remarkable longevity here - and another half case in the cellar yet I think. 16.5-17+/20
Lanson Gold Label Brut 1995: A deep, rich, golden hue with a rather sparse, fairly finely-sized bead. The nose, although initially very closed, soon opens up to reveal delightfully mature and yet also very fresh aromas, with nuances of pistachio, Brazil nut and mushroom, all laid over a layer of crystalline fruit. Crisp, with notes of orange peel, nutmeg and a touch honeyed. Full and vibrant in style, with great acidity, lively mousse, great definition and just a hint of cream at the edges. A very punchy style, although there is mushroomy maturity on the palate as well as the nose, and a wine that works best with food even now. Hugely refreshing but also contemplative. Lovely wine. No rush to drink if you have any, plenty of years left in this one yet. All gone for me though. 17.5+/20