TN: A few Saturday night: Huet, Juge and Faurie.

A few wines from a dinner Saturday night with a visiting Frank McCormick and his better half, Deanna.


2008 Huet- Vouvray Demi-Sec “Le Mont”
Just gorgeous, brilliant wine. I’ve loved this wine since I tried it at the domaine a year ago and I’ve had it about eight times since. This bottle seemed to have been a little fuller than most of the others, with vibrant quince fruit leading the way with chalky mineral, yellow and white flowers and hints of bee’s wax. Long and full with brilliant acidity. I liken the ’08 to a slightly lighter ’02, with maybe more pronounced quince and a less dense mineral character. Really special stuff. Low A.

1999 Marcel Juge- Cornas “Cuvée SC”
I was stunned by how fruit forward and clean this wine was. The wine is awash in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, with beef blood and black pepper as backup singers. It’s smooth and harmonious throughout the palate and supported by a nice acid framework. With some air a strong stony character came to the forefront as did more of a garrigue character. Beautiful wine. Low A.

1991 Bernard Faurie- Hermitage “Le Meal”
This did not start off well as there was an overwhelming pine/menthol/mint character on the nose and palate. Thankfully, with extended airing, it receded and high-toned red fruit took its place. It’s a lighter, more feminine wine than the Juge, with brighter, more obvious structure. After awhile the fruit did grow a little more copious and some green olive and herbal notes came up. A-/B+.

Thanks for the notes Brad.

What are your thoughts on the drinking window for the '08 Huet? Is it showing signs of closing up yet? Is this a vintage that will require decades before reemerging?

I love that '08 Le Mont…

As do I Todd; opened one a few weeks ago and after about a 30 minute decant it added more depth and expression to its nose.

Brad - did you pop and pour?

I think the jury is still out a bit with how these wines will age in the Hwang ownership era as they are using a lot less sulfur than in the past. That’s part of what made all those great wines from the '40’s-'70’s so bulletproof. I think since '02, these wines will definitely have a shorter aging curve, but we’re still talking decades here, imo.

As for the '08, this was the most open bottle I’ve had to date. Going by the '02, which I think it more closely resembles than anything since, it should continue to drink well for a few more years, but will probably close up a little sooner than the '02’s did. It’s only in the past year or two that I think the '02’s have really started to shut down and I think these were showing well for so long because they have a density to them that the '08’s don’t.

Popped and poured, but I spent over an hour with it in the glass.