TN: A contrary view--98 Torbreck Steading GSM

WINE TALK
1

In the latest issue of WA, RP wrote a What About Now for older Australian Shiraz and Grenache. In the section for Torbreck, he revisits the 1998 Steading GSM. He noted that the fruit was drying out, with a short and sharp finish. I was a bit surprised by his notes–I had poured this wine coincidentally the other week at my legal aid charity event, and it was very well-received. Not only the guests but my wine geek volunteers tasted it and thought it was very good.

I retasted it from a fresh bottle last night, and it’s still drinking very well. Granted, the exuberant fruit of its youth has diminished slightly, but it’s not as if the fruit is MIA at all. While it’s not the longest finish in the Western World, I wouldn’t call it short, and it’s much more harmonious than sharp. There’s a strong savory/minty quality throughout.

On my scale, just lacking sufficient complexity to get to a “wow” so a very strong “yum plus.” If I was feeling pointy, it would probably be in the 91-2 range or so.

Bruce

2

Bruce, I fear that if wine from down under isn’t a gloopy mess past its baby years, it will not be well received by RMP.

For me, the '98s from Oz have been nothing but stellar ten to eleven years out. No drying out or short finishes on the following wines consumed in the past year:

Grange
RWT
Elderton Command
E&E Black Pepper

3

just repeating what i said on another board. I drank the same wine with bruce, i think we opened 3 bottles of it? Delicious wine. The fruit is now a compliment to the rest of the wine, not in your face jammy.

Solid A- wine at the least.