I’m certainly no expert here, especially with young Burg. I plan to hold my '99 for several more years. If Greg has the '07 1er Cru bottling I would give that a shot. It’s a young vine blend. The '02 is still rather tight fwiw. I don’t think decanting will benefit the wine in terms of mitigating age. The complexity you get with age just won’t be there. It looks like the '06 1er is available at Wine Ex. Haven’t had it but I’d bet it’s a bit more accessible now.
If this helps, I pulled a 96 D’Angerville Taillepieds last night. Popped and poured. The wine was sharp as nails. Deep red and black fruit mingled but the acid was still very high. The flavors were still very primary. This needs at least 5 more years. A 98 Ducster recently was drinking very well but still primary. Given the nature of the vintage(07) i believe ten years will be in order.
I haven’t had any myself yet but there have been a few threads here reporting that the '07 Angervilles are showing beautifully now. The fact that older vintages still need more time doesn’t really say anything about a new vintage that hasn’t had the chance to shut down yet.
Frank,
Two things to consider. First, as Keith alludes to, they’re all somewhat accessible on release, but some can shut down a year or two after release. So you might check in on the '07s now. Haven’t had one though, so I can’t say. But you’re not going to get the full Ducs experience with it young, but you can check in on it.
Second, it depends on which vineyard. The Ducs and Taillepieds both need a lot of time (as Nick’s note on the '96 shows). In a good vintage, either of them would need at least 15-20 years if not more, they can really shut down hard. As alluded to above, however, the Champans is a less structured wine and doesn’t shut down as hard. So if you want a fleshier, less severe d’Angerville that will be accessible earlier, try the Champans. The one I least like to drink young is the Taillepieds, which can be really austere. It’s one of their best, but really needs time. I have less experience with the Fremiets, but find it can be fairly structured too.
So again, if you’re going to check in on them young, go for the most recent vintage. And Champans will be the most accessible of those (although I can’t help but check in on the younger Ducs).
Hey, if you want to pop some d’Angervilles, maybe we could organize an OC d’Angerville dinner, that would be a lot of fun.
Robert, a burg dinner, with me in attendance? That might make a few around here cry. What part of the So Cal area do you live in?
Let me start to get my feet wet with a few of these. I suspect next week I can get into Envoyer and I will pick up the Champans, perhaps the Fremiets, too.
FWIW, I also opened a '99 D’Angerville Champans over the weekend. It is showing beautifully and I think it is a great place to start if someone wants to look at Volnay.
Even though I usually prefer the profile of Caillerets to Champans, in '99 the D’angerville Champans is a much better wine than their Caillerets.
Thank you all for your insightful comments on the different Volnays. My first ‘eye popping’ encounter with my first amazing Volnay was a 1993 Comte Lafon Santenot du Milieu in MOntreal a couple of years back. Just plain sexy was the first word that popped into my head. It was still very much focused and not a bit of imbalance from beginning to end. Nothing came out intrusively but the complexity was all their for one to savour. Only until now when visiting SF did I meanage to get its 2007 sibling to augment my little stash of 05 D’Angerville and Bouchard Caillerets.
So, any insight into this Comte Lafon representation is much appreciated.
Actually, that’s not really a Volnay at all. It’s in Meursault but is allowed to call itself Volnay-Santenots, presumably to preserve Meursault as a name for white wines. Although it’s next to Volnay, at least in my opinion it is a very different taste from a Volnay proper.
Slow climb. I’m certainly not doing much the way of red (yet) but had another nice Puligny this weekend, the Morey Les Truffieres. We need to get together soon, or we’ll just bump into each other at Envoyer.
Robert, that is fairly close. If you end up doing a burg dinner in the future, keep in mind, plz.
Very different from which Volnay site? Caillerets abutts this vineyard and I find the same streak of minerality in both sites. While Caillerets seems to be the site for wines with greater structure, I like Santenots for it’s pretty foloral aromatics and the minerality.
Did not know, I always thought it was just edging with Meursault and was not aware of the special a’arrangement’. Thanks. I am mesmerised by the ‘sexy’ floral note and the balance of the 1993. What is your view of a typical Volnay signature? I do find differences between Caillerets, Champans and Taillepieds from the bottles of D’Angerville I had albeit more recent vintages (2003s and 2005s)
J,
I think the other Volnay 1ers (in Volnay proper) are more airy, mineral and lighter in weight than a typical Santenots.
IMO, Santenots is a bit meatier and heavier.
Thanks. Now I need to refresh my Volnay memory this coming long weekend in Canada (Thanksgiving) with French Rack wild boar, home made spaghetti carbonara. The guests can have the turkey.