9 FROM HERMITAGE, HANNA, FONSECA, TOKAJI - Dale’s (1/15/2010)
Last night, one of my groups met to taste Hermitage. All wines were consumed blind over the course of three hours. Bread, cheeses and assorted meats (for those who wanted them) were available. This group eschews airing the wine, opting for pop and pour. I almost always disagree, and last night, I think the wines were hurt by this. Others in the group disagreed. In any event, there was more agreement on the wines than is the norm for the group. And, in general, this was a disappointing showing given the astronomical pricing many of these wines now sell for. Still, there were some gems to be found. It was interesting the diversity in the wines given such a small geographical area. Of course, different vintages and different producers.
Dale provided us with a couple white starters (blind)
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2003 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
The first bottle was corked so, our host Dale opened a second. Golden color. The wine was short on the nose, with lots of air, some cantelope notes emerge. It was a very round wine that was quite soft. An interesting combination that I thought made it a couch potato. Somewhat bitter on the palate. I think you need to drink these young or after 10 years, but not at 7. (87 pts.) -
2002 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc Slusser Rd. Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Quite a revelation. Pale golden in color, this wine screamed SB. I thought California as it had nice grapefruit, but as it lacked grassiness perhaps South Africa as it was exuberant but lacked tropical fruit. It certainly seemed very young. I kept going back all night long and it eventually turned grassy and hay filled. Then, back to the grapefruit. It had crisp acidity and was delicious. I never had this producer before, but this one was outstanding. (90 pts.)
The Hermitages:
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1999 Domaine des Rémizières Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
A nice way to start. Purple/ruby coloring. A nose of black cherries and violets. Tight. Nice boysenberries turning slightly tart. Good body with a long juicy finish. Very correct wine but needs some air. Got better all night long. This was the groups WOTN although not mine. (91 pts.) -
2004 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
This was tight and just not showing much. It had a nice texture and seemed to have a lot of layering but was wound so tight, how could you tell. A wall of tannins with some bitter black cherries. By the end of the night, some black raspberries were coming out. My first sip of this was the best as it shut down hard. How can you score this now? -
1996 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Looking old and a bit flat, this did come together with some air. Dusty at first, it added red raspberries. There was a tart acidity that seemed out of balance and never quite came together. Later, black raspberries and tannins came out. Perhaps slow oxygenation would help, but this bottle never seemed destined for greatness. (87 pts.) -
2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Wow. Night and day from the 96. This was open for business and had the best nose on the table. Gorgeous nose of spice, cedar, black raspberries and violets. Sinewy, complex with soft tannins. Juicy texture. Perhaps better on the nose, but this was forward and robust. Not sure where it goes from here, but it was delicious today. (93 pts.) -
1995 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
I liked this slightly better than the group I think. Despite its age, this was just starting top open at the 2 hour mark. Violets and black raspberries. Lush texture. Very clean and precise wine. The craftmanship stood out as the layers started to unwind. I know these are expensive, but this still needs some time or decanting, and it will be even better. (92 pts.) -
2003 Delas Frères Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
There were some who liked this a lot. I found the oak to be a bit strong (mostly cedar). Nice spice but it cam across as zin like to me. Perhaps even a bit raisined. Not surprised to see it was an 2003. It was thin at first but did put on some weight, but the finish was tart/thin. Certainly a nice enough wine, but not what I want. (88 pts.) -
1997 Domaine Belle Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
This was odd. It got worse as the night went on. A nose that reminded me of canned potatoes. Thin and weak and soft. Bitter, clipped finish. I am probably being generous with my score. (85 pts.) -
1999 E. Guigal Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
I brought this and it was much too cold due to a comdey of errors (canceled event, wife putting the bottle in front hall closet, me forgetting about it). As it warmed, it showed much better. Complex, with nice black cherry fruit. Violets. Nice balance and good mouthfeel. Still on the young and tannic side. I would give it more time. (91 pts.)
A couple to finish the evening
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1983 Fonseca Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
What a delicious bottle of port! Thin red color. Slightly sweet on the palate with cerries and raisins. No signs of heat. Complex. It was decanted about 3 hours. I thought it had the combination of age and lack of exuberance, that I find troublesome in many 83’s. Yet, this wine handled it deftly. A real treat. And a great shwoing for this wine. (94 pts.) -
2001 Borkülönlegess Tokaji Aszú 3 Puttonyos - Hungary, Hegyalja, Tokaji
Not a big fan of these wines. Some nice apricot notes, but also alcohol fumes. Some bitter orange rind and a very slightly sweet palate. Just not a style I enjoy. (83 pts.)
Thanks to Dale for hosting. Excellent time.
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