Several of us got together last night for a little taste-off of some 1985 vs. 1986 Bordeaux. The wines were tasted non-blind, and I think most (if not all) were double-decanted before people left for the restaurant. We then poured them into decanters at the restaurant.
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1996 Veuve Cliquot Grande Dame. Even though I’ve become less thrilled with the basic VC orange label over time, there’s no denying the charm of this bottling. Lots of lemon and apple throughout, with yeastiness and minerality. Excellent fruit/acid balance, and great with the appetizers. Not one of the top 96’s, but still delightful, and a “wow” from me. May continue to improve in the cellar.
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2000 Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet. What a very generous (and delicious) contribution. Lots of lemon/citrus, butterscotch (but not overdone), and a bit of vanilla. No evidence of prem-ox at all–light yellow color, no nutty oxidation, etc. Brilliant fruit and structure, with a long, clean finish. Excellent with the branzino. Probably will continue to improve for at least the next 5-7 years, and between a “wow” and “wow plus” for me now.
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1985 Lynch Bages. I also had this wine over the weekend, but the bottle last night was much fresher, younger, and more vibrant. Green herbs/tobacco, earth, and dark red fruits. Balanced midpalate, leading to still some healthy, rounded tannins. Depending on your preferences, this wine is at peak or nearly there, and another “wow plus” for me.
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1986 Lynch Bages. Take the 1985, but increase the fruit and decrease the herbs/tobacco. Greater acidity vs. midpalate fruit, and stronger tannins on the finish. Still youngish, and could use 5+ years in the cellar. Just below “wow” for me.
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1986 Pichon Lalande. Tough to call for me at first–on the line between musty and slightly corked, with a somewhat clipped midpalate and finish. I came back to it much later, though, and the musty quality had diminished and the sweetness of the fruit had come out. Still, I think this wine is going to need a lot of time in the cellar, and I’m not sure how much it will improve. By the end of the evening, a “yum plus.”
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1985 Gruard Larose. Strong earthy/tobacco, with a much softer midpalate, and very rounded, fine tannins. Really in a great place right now, and near maturity; a “wow” for me.
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1986 Gruard Larose. Initially, the nose was quite caramelly and plummy, but then it deeped as the night went on. In the taste, though, the tannins quickly rushed in and dominated the midpalate, clamping down firmly on the finish. The tannins eased up ever so slightly with time, but this wine is many years away from maturity. A “yum plus” now, with potential for more.
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1986 Talbot. Initially I got quite a bit of funk (brett?), but that blew off to produce a more exotic, spicy style. We debated the possible spices–was it licorice/anise, clove, cinnamon–but you get the picture. Still shows a lot of the firmness of the 1986 vintage, but I thought the pairing between this wine and the braised lamb shank was the best of the Bordeaux. Another “wow” for me.
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1988 Raymond-Lafond Sauternes. Denis and Tiffany generous opened this wine, even though they had to rush out to get home. Beautiful fuzzy apricot, honey, and botrytis throughout, and good Sauternes is so welcome after a bunch of tannic red Bordeaux! Yet another “wow” and a good match with the creme brulee.
At the end, we voted on favorites of the Bordeaux:
#1 1985 Lynch Bages (6/0/2)
#2 1986 Pichon Lalande (1/3/1)
#3 1985 Gruard Larose (1/2/2)
A lot of fun, and quite educational. Thanks to Paul and Joel for putting it together.
Bruce