TN: 79 Filippo Sobrero [Barolo]

79 Filippo Sobrero [Barolo] stood up for a day, served cool, opened two hours prior to dinner, not decanted, extreme sedimentation. Great fill, perfect cork, extracted smoothly. Sourced in last 6 mos from trusted vendor - a pic is on this link.

I don’t think that picture will do it justice, especially compared to the fine photos Nicos shares of his older treasures.

Color is a very light translucent pink / orange, with light edge. 14% abv, yet medium bodied, not heavy. Complex, interesting nose of rose, bramble, fennel, my Mom’s cedar lined fur closet. Lots of red berry fruit, no oxidation, acid is well balanced, it pairs brilliantly with a butternut squash & sausage risotto. Even after 35 years, it still has a light touch of tannin. One doesn’t notice it while eating/drinking, but afterwards, when one is finishing the last dregs, that firmness can be picked up. There are soy/jerky notes on the 30 second finish, long and serious. I’m always amazed by how intensely flavored some Barolo’s can be, despite the lack of rich coloration.

Very surprised that the SO chose this – normally she doesn’t like wines as old as I do – but she loved it. I’ve never heard of the producer Fillippo Sobrero – there are no CT notes after 1982 – but this well stored bottle was excellent. I’d give it an A- and if anything, I generally do not get all that excited about Piedmont wines, so that’s a positive comment. Although I suppose one could temper it by noting that I don’t know anything about this region.

I would have loved to get the dearly departed Bill Klapps’s thoughts on this, but alas, that is not to be.