First time trying a wine from highly-regarded Hungarian winemaker Stephanie Berecz.
Berecz’s vineyards cover only 7 hectares in Tokaj. Soil is loess on volcanic rock. The backlabel says “Fermentation-ageing in oak barrels for 4 months.” 3600 bottles produced.
If a wine ever smelled and tasted of perfectly ripe mango it’s this one. Holy smokes. The nose is serious and oppulent; the oak is showingbut it acts to amplify the plushness of the fruit. On the palate it’s got tons of heat, tastes of mango throughout, and retains tension and freshness. There are earthy tones and a hint of chiles that play along with the fruit to also deliver fried sage, lemon, vanilla. The front is zippy and acidic, the broad shoulders of malolactic fermentation and oak ageing come later, and out of the big oak flavors emerges the triumphant mango. God damn this is delicious. Pleasure in 4 acts. The finish ties things back up in cripsness, with the fried herbs, the lemon, and a bit of honey. The aftertaste is like milk-soaked corn flakes. This wine is structured like the resounding toll of a 9-ton cast iron bell, but it drinks like a sunny day strolling by the river.
Bottle was opened last night for dinner. Everyone at the table immediately recognized this wine as different and one that demands concentration. Similar to proper White Burgundy - think St Aubin or Meursault. At the moment of writing, the bottle has been open for ~24 hours, and is holding up perfeclty. It pairs fantastically with Epoisses de Bourgogne (soft cheese).
This will make someone have visions 15 years from now. Hard to believe that it only cost 17 euros. Buy a case.