TN: 2020 Taboadella Grande Villae

This is the white version of the top cuvée from Amorim’s megaproject in the Dão, with oenology by the gracious and perennially overachieving Jorge Alves. Chiseled laser beams of white fruit melange and lemon curd focus sharply on the nose, with sweet herbs and river pebbles trailing behind elegantly. It feels like a bucketload of Encruzado fruit gloriously yet uncomfortably stuffed into a much too small 75cl bottle. There are ample dimensions to the palate: the volume is grandiose, the acidity proportional without an ounce of sharpness to its breadth, the finish long and rich. The 12 month oak elevage (500 liter barrels) is judicious in the way that it rounds out the mouthfeel without any flavors that might be directly characterized as oaky. It’s a prince taking baby steps, and one of those wines that might be tasked with proving, some years into the future, that the longevity of the Buçaco whites is not a ruse or a circunstancial anomaly.

Loved the 2019 I had last year. Brought a bottle back to the states.