My relationship with Dolcetto is…non-existent. Forced to name a good example I could come up with exactly one, Marcarini’s bottling which has a name that completely escapes me. Otto rec’d this one and given the friendly tariff I went for it. Will I be buying more? Does the pope shit in the woods?
2020 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba Santo Stefano di Perno - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (20.2.2023)
Hauntingly beautiful raspberry and sourcherry driven fruit on the nose which is quite dark in tone but with a nice tart edge to it. It’s slightly floral and earthy as well and there is a wild side to it. Immediately characterful and captivating. On the palate it has a medium-sized frame and paradoxically there is both smoothness and edge to it. Not markedly tannic nor acidic but it has energy and lift and it finishes very clean and dry. The style here is wonderfully savory and refreshing but despite its young age it isn’t all that primary and it definitely isn’t one-note and clearly it is picking up more weight and grip as the temp gets up. Really makes me re-think Dolcetto, this is a seriously complete and seriously serious wine that is not to be taken lightly. Clearly there is upside but when you have something from Piemonte that drinks this well this young how can you possible keep your hands off it while you wait for the Baroli to mature???
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