2019 Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Golden Capsule)- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/5/2022)
Young, young, young. This wine does not yet know what it wants to be when it goes up. It’s currently a set of top quality ingredients, but still needs to come together as a whole. The profile is bright at first, with all the lemon cream freshness I expect from a good Sonnenuhr Spätlese, but on the back end is a honey drizzled pineapple element that feels more like a gold capsule wine. I suspect that time will bring all the elements together as a whole. Check back in after 2030.
I think across the range the green caps are where they excel. Of course a few of the higher end white caps are fantastic but I think you have to go up to the ** and *** level.
Despite the idiosyncratic labeling system, I think there are a lot of delicious wines to be found across the range. I’ve mostly had the white caps. The two stars are pretty good value for world class dry whites and the three stars have been pretty mind blowing (though relatively pricier). The vast range of bottlings is a barrier for any but the most dedicated. One challenge is just figuring out what stores are offering - tons of online mislabeling issues sadly.
The 1998 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Eiswein GK I had a few years ago was incredible. I’ve been meaning to try some more MM, but haven’t made much progress yet. The amount of covees is a bit overwhelming.
I’ve imported a plain silly broad array of the wines for the past four years, and can say that, at their best, he excels at all styles.
My personal fave may be the green Capsule wines, as very serious feinherb examples of so many Grand cru sites are relatively rare to find, and his are consistently really really good.
The white and Gold Capsule wines can all be seriously compelling.
Variety eeeez zeee spice