This is exactly what one would expect from the vintage. This is a bombastic Jamet with a big blast of olive tapenade, liquor-rich dark fruits, white pepper, and ferrous metals. Not picking up any florals, I think they wilted in the heat. And you do pick up the heat, summer aromatics and elevated alcohol on the body. This is a wine that needs something hearty for pairing. I’m on the third glass and kinda getting tired. Mind you, it has a lot going on, and I can see lots of folks loving the scale and density of this wine. Maybe it is a time and a place Côte Rotie for me. I went from loving the first glass to ultimately liking it less as I hit this third. The imprimatur of a hot vintage resides too heavily on this wine. As it has taken on air and time, it is showing some tarry notes, charcoal, globs of glycerin and more richness of dark fruits. The coarse tannins are also slamming down on me. Long rich sweet finish.
It’s a shame as I’ve only recently discovered the joy of Northern Rhone wines. But as someone who trends to wines much more on the leaner side, I’m left wondering if they are worth following (for me) longer-term given what is almost certainly going to be continued impacts from climate change.
Try the 2021s. Don’t think you’ll be finding any overripe wines there. Also, try Maison Stephan, who generally makes wines in a leaner (and “natural”) style.
2018 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (1/8/2022)
Hot take: wine of the vintage. The nose on this is stellar; it's all classic syrah, more purple than red or black fruit (and to a degree, a bit of jamminess but not in a bad way), intense olive brininess, and a little bit of smoke. Really, it doesn't get more classic than this. The palate is Allemand-like in its silkiness; almost as if Allemand had made a Côte-Rôtie (i.e. a less feral, slightly brighter-fruited wine). No rough edges, just pure syrah fruit on top of a briny olive note. The tannins are supple and nothing like the brooding nature of the Chave or Allemand Chaillot. Yes, this is very ripe (you're never going to get away from that) but overall there's a pervading coolness on the palate from the acidity that balances this out. A fantastic effort and if you were to buy a single 2018 Northern Rhône, this would be it. (95 points)
