Oh, Alsace. It’s so easy to love the region and its wines when traveling there. As soon as you return you lose (I do) all the enthusiasm and quickly forget about their great products. Fortunately I had a sudden inspiration to get a few bottles of Alsatian Riesling recently and acted on it. This is the first of the trio.
Domaine Kirrenbourg is a rather unique operation that to my understanding only owns vines in the Grands Crus (Schlossberg, Brand with a Rangen Riesling being produced too. That means that even a mid-range wine like this one is a product of the granite soil of Schlossberg, as the back label states. While very different from the region’s entry level Rieslings this wine in a way screams Alsace as far as stylistic stereotypes go. It has size, ripeness and alcohol but knowing where it is coming from makes it easy to appreciate it.
2017 Domaine Kirrenbourg Riesling Terroir S - France, Alsace (24.1.2023)
The nose indicates a high maturity of grapes with notes of tinned fruits rather than fresh ones. A very strong stonefruit character too with a nice iodine note and an early hint of petrol. On the palate the flavors follow the nose closely with some additional spiciness and the wine has quite remarkable volume and richness without being even close to heavy or cloying. It is not the most acid-driven Riesling out there but that is not to say that it lacks any. On the contrary, it has very good drive, some nervousness and a rather tight finish. It has that airy quality that is often found in dry Riesling of certain level - whether that is from ageing in oak or not I do not know. It is a very textured wine indeed and one that would without a doubt perform well at the table but I find it just perfect for sipping and contemplating. Lots of flavor here with a lip-smacking finish, this is one of those wines that is hard to stop savoring. I’ll be buying more from this address for sure.
Posted from CellarTracker