TN: 2016 La Paulee San Francisco - Saturday Grand Tasting

2016 LA PAULEE SAN FRANCISCO - SATURDAY GRAND TASTING - Fairmont Hotel, San Francisco (3/5/2016)

Another enjoyable Paulee Saturday. A bit thin on some of the “top” producers that sometimes show up, but a few new ones to enjoy as well. Overall, I thought the 2013s performed better than the previous two vintages. Many excellent whites, and the reds are quite fresh and tasty. I asked several producers to contrast 2013 with the upcoming 2014s, and though not uniform, the general consensus seems to be that 2014 has a little more intensity, but may also be a little more forward and fruity, ready to drink earlier.

2014 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour) Brouilly Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly
Bright, fresh, tasty, zippy acidity, easy to drink. (88 pts.)
2014 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour) Fleurie Chapelle des Bois - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Dark crunchy berries, shows a bit of overt sweetness, but excellent balancing acidity, sense of crushed rocks on the finish. (89 pts.)
2014 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour) Fleurie Clos de la Grand’Cour - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Very pretty, medium cherry/raspberry, great acidity and rockiness, tasty! (91 pts.)
2014 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour) Fleurie Champagne Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Wow, bright, rocky, slightly lighter cherry/strawberry than the Clos, so tasty! (91 pts.)

2013 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Beautiful, medium intensity, excellent balance, delicious. (92 pts.)
2013 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Medium depth, nice sense of umami, medium long finish, gorgeous. (92 pts.)
2013 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
More intensity and depth than Frionnes, great umami/saline, long finish, fabulous. (93 pts.)
2013 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru en Remilly - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Fabulous intensity, great depth of flavor, long finish. Not much to distinguish from Chateniere, would need to sit and taste the two side by side at length to find the subtle differences. (93 pts.)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Tasty, but shows some ripeness, bit of sweet touch, and a candied note. Tasty, but bordering on overripe. (89 pts.)
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
Excellent depth, decent balance, nice wine. (91 pts.)
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A bit sweet and ripe, nice acidity, but just a bit too much. (90 pts.)
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Very rich, broad, good acidity, almost over the top. Lacks the definition and cut I’m looking for in a top white Burg. (90 pts.)

2013 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Nice medium depth dark cherry, good acidity, well structured with somewhat firm tannins. (91 pts.)
2013 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Angles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Touch of sweetness on entry, decent medium dark cherry, quite astringent at this young age. (90 pts.)
2013 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Gorgeous, medium dark black cherry, very nice intensity and depth, perfect structure and acidity, rocky, tannic. A standout, but will need years. (93 pts.)
2013 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Beautiful deep cherry/raspberry, very structured, needs years. (92 pts.)

2013 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
Tasty and delicious. Maybe not particularly complex, but everything is in place with nice intensity and perfect balance. (90 pts.)
2013 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Nice medium depth, touch of sweetness, excellent balance. (92 pts.)
2013 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Fabulous depth and richness, beautifully balance, striking and gorgeous. (93 pts.)
2013 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Almost a bit too ripe, not showing the depth or length of the Plaisir. (91 pts.)

2013 Domaine François Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d’Or - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Quick taste at the end of Paulee - bit ripe, missing depth. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine François Mikulski Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Quick taste at end of Paulee - Gorgeous, rich, nice depth, well balanced. (92 pts.)

2013 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Quite rich, touch fat, but very tasty. (91 pts.)
2013 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Lush, rich, opulent, somehow all in balance. Fabulous, though I have no idea how it will age. (93 pts.)
2013 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Delicious, rich, deep cherry, decent acidity. Reminds me a bit of the 2010, maybe not quite as structured. (92 pts.)

2013 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Gorgeous, medium rich, opulent, very tasty. Needs lobster. (93 pts.)
2013 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Decent darker cherry fruit, slightly rustic with good structure, should be very nice in a few years. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru
Slightly lighter bodied than the “Les”, medium bright cherry, good structure. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium body and depth, bit reserved, not showing a lot but has future promise. (91 pts.)

2013 Joseph Drouhin Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Wow. Starts with nice depth, then continues to build intensity slowly, everything perfectly in place, simply fabulous. I wrote this before I knew there are only 50 cases made. I went back multiple times to taste this. (95 pts.)
2013 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Tasty medium cherry, nice medium intensity, good structure. Very nice, nothing out of place. (91 pts.)
2013 Joseph Drouhin Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Gorgeous medium depth, good intensity of medium cherry fruit, great finish, perfect structure and balance. Lovely wine. (93 pts.)

2013 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Nicely elegant, medium light dried cherry, good acidity, slight tartness, very pleasant. (89 pts.)
2013 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Very nice medium dark cherry, good acidity, touch of refreshing tartness, quite nice. (91 pts.)
2013 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Shows similarity to the Murgers style, with pleasant medium lighter bodied cherry, bit of tartness for interest, quite elegant. (91 pts.)
2013 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Elegant medium cherry, a bit more length than Suchots, excellent balance, very fine. Beautiful wine, in a more delicate style. (93 pts.)

2013 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Nice depth of medium cherry, good balance and structure, touch rustic, will need some time to soften. (90 pts.)
2013 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Similar to the “Classique”, with a touch more intensity and refinement, though there is a strong sense of astringency on the finish. (91 pts.)

2013 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ripe nose, lush, rich, medium dark cherry, good acidity. Tasty and easy to drink. (91 pts.)
2013 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lighter body, lush, lighter cherry. Pleasant, but a little simple. (90 pts.)
2013 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Rich, lush, opulent, very forward, quite typical of the Fourrier style. (91 pts.)

2013 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Nice light medium cherry, good acidity, touch of tartness and a bit astringent on the finish. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru
Quite tasty, with a bit more intensity than the Village Saint-Denis, nice acidity. (90 pts.)
2013 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Beautifully elegant medium cherry, taut, very pretty wine. (92 pts.)
2013 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Nice medium cherry, elegant, almost delicate, very fine, but lighter bodied. (92 pts.)

2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Fixin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin
Fresh and pleasant with some nice tartness. (87 pts.)
2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Noticeable Ethyl Acetate nose, carries through with some bitterness, not rated.
2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Pleasant, lighter body, bright cherry. (89 pts.)
2013 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Very nice medium depth, good richness, nice structure. Quite enjoyable. (91 pts.)

With a pretty tight scoring band of 87-93, were that not any real standouts? How does it compare to past Paulee Grand Tastings for benchmark vintages you’ve attended (ie '09, '10, '12)? I know you said you preferred it to the last two vintages…does that mean you like '13 better than '12 as a whole?

I wasn’t super fond of 2012 for either reds (many too rustic) or whites (too fat). 2011 reds too light, 2011 whites too raw. Always exceptions, of course, and some producers manage to make very good (if not great) wine in almost any vintage. This is an event where there is already a fair amount of quality selection in terms of which producers show up, so you never expect to find any really weak wines. There were also fewer “top” producers this year (Roumier, Mugnier, Rousseau, Bruno Clair, Ponsot, Comte Liger-Belair, d’Angerville, Lafarge, Leflaive, Faiveley, Méo-Camuzet, Mugneret-Gibourg, Dauvissat are some I can think of that have shown up in one or more years over the past 5), so maybe that contributed to the somewhat lower top end. And some producers didn’t pour their best wines, which they have in the past (e.g., Roulot didn’t pour Perrieres, PYCM didn’t pour Perrieres or Batard).

For me, 13 is clearly the best white vintage since 2010, and I also think better for reds than 2012 or 2011, but others may have different opinions.

Thanks for the notes Alan. By all accounts it sounded like another successful La Paulee. I look forward to the NY version in 2017. I very much enjoy the 2013 Burgundy vintage as well.