TN: 2016 Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan

As we’ve lamented many a time, who’s left in Bordeaux making wine with a sense of tradition, place, individuality?

Sociando Mallet, maybe some Pomerol, GPL (?), who else? The ranks are thin these days.

Bel Air Marquis! [wow.gif]

I still think some of the major Classified Growths, like Montrose, Leoville Barton, GPL, Lalande, Haut Brion, et al., not to mention La Mission Haut Brion, are making spectacular wines that remain consistent with their traditions and place. My issue there is cost and them needing so much time, that I am better off back-filling. I did buy a fairly broad range of 2014s, but now am I only barely tipping my toes into a few 2015s and 2016s. Shocking to me that wines like Figeac and Conseillante - wines that had major followings - would have gone to the modernists. I have not tried them in 2015 or 2016 to see how that is reflected in the wine, but the scores and rave critics’ reviews do speak volumes. I bought both in 2014, however.

They should move their vineyards to Portugal

Fwiw, my note from UGC back in January:

2016 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
medium dark, medium body, slightly lighter style, very nice dusty dark red fruit, has richness but maintains some elegance with good acidity, some fine rocky tannins, almost a volcanic note. Leaning more lush and modern but quite delicious. (92 pts.)

Assuming 2018 is “more” of everything than 16, I’d probably skip it even if I wasn’t already out of my buying window due to age.

I am pretty fond of the 2008 Haut Bailly, and recently had it from both bottle and magnum. The magnum was completely shut down, but in my notes from the fifth I found some cedar, brick dust and a little bit of leather, which I think may become more pronounced with age.

Good to hear, I’ll avoid the 15 and 16.

I didn’t find the 08 modern really, except for the structure as it was wide open already in that regard. It was more that it seemed just a bit too refined if that’s possible, not slick really, but almost corporate. Again, it was super delicious, a super wine, but not a super Graves (at least yet).

An irony here, it is that very own 1990 La Louviere that was my Bordeaux epiphany wine. Had it on release in 1994. Classic dusty, smoky, earthy Pessac-Leognan. I have since had more than two cases of that wine, including one last year. It has never ever once disappointed, and has always been true.

I’m gonna pull a page from the critics’ play book, and declare the 1990 Louviere the best ever at that address.

I’m a big fan of this Chateau, at least was until they recently went dark, but concur 100%. The 1990 is the finest wine that they have made. And like you, I have had lots of this vintage and others.

I’m more concerned about the state of Roberto’s cellar. What the hell is he doing drinking 2016 Bordeaux? Even in the tropics we know that the stuff needs to be aged. In our wine circle it is frowned upon if a Bordeaux from this century is opened.

LOL. One must try in order to discern what to buy, or one could end up with drek in this era of ever-changing wine styles and musical chairs with consultants. The days of yore when we could rely on a singular critic, and the historic consistency of the great estates, is a thing of the past, for the most part.

And this was more or less a science experiment. It’s not like I’m stocking up on 16s at my age, but was very curious where a perrenial fave of mine had gone. Plus, I wanted to rub it in Leve’s face that I hated it. But I didn’t.

Hmmm. Maybe. Probably. The 83 and 85 are also very fine

I think you sent me a bottle of the 1983, yes? I did indeed enjoy it, as I have some 1982. I still think the 1990 is a step up, but I’m curious of your most recent experience.

I don’t know, man. These Turley zins are calling me . . . .

By this century, are you including 2000? Beginning to open and enjoy.

No shame in opening 2001s now, and I am just about done with my 2003s (some of which were delicious). 04s and 02s are rounding into shape.

There is hope for you yet Robert. neener Wait until you taste the 2016 Figeac! It is pricey. But it’s also a remarkable wine.

Haven’t started on my 2000’s yet. Planning to organize a tasting next year to look in. As a group we have been enjoying the 88, 89, 90, 95, 96 and 98 RB. Once in a while we dip into the reserves of 82 and 85. Opened a bottle last week of the 85 Haut Bages Averous that was outstanding.

If anyone is in Illinois Binny’s is selling the 2016 for $99/bottle (though the website says there is only limited availability at certain stores, so it might all be gone already). I cleaned out their Lincoln Park location yesterday of the 6 it said they had in stock and they even gave me a case discount (knocking it down to $89/bottle!) which was a steal.

https://www.binnys.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+carmes+haut

I got to this relatively late in the UGC tasting back in January. My note seems to accord with uncle Bob’s.

"2016 Chateau Les Carmes-Haut Brion

Pretty. That’s the word for this bouquet. Real leather component with black raspberry and black plum. Compelling. What a nice change of pace—very fresh indeed with tannins and acid well integrated. Cranberry and redcurrant, lots of interest and a chance to grow into something very good (although the price, at C$375 a bottle is a bit crazy now)."

I have a 98 up to bat for next July as part of a 98s table tasting.

Best,

Mike